Arowana Care: There's a Fossil in My Tank!

The Amazon River is probably the most widely used poster image for biodiversity; the whole stretch of freshwater running for miles is the home to a huge fraction of the world's flora and fauna. Among the animals which live here, the fishes have the most number and most diverse. One of the well-known and well-loved fish species is what people call as the "water monkey of the Amazon" -- the arowana fish.

The earliest fossils of the ancestors of the arowanafish date to 200 million years ago in the rivers of Africa, but the fish we know today found its home in the Amazon River 140 millions of years ago, dating back to the Early Cretaceous period. Ever since then, given its superb features, the fish had changed very little; hence it is sometimes called as a living fossil. That is why the arowana does not look like the modern pet fishes which are commercially available; they boast a history dating millions of years back. 

This fish can grow to lengths of four to six feet, all thirty pounds of pure muscle which gives them excellent darting abilities. They also have huge eyes which led some ecologists to assume that they have one of the sharpest sights of all the fishes. Another tell tale sign of it being a living fossil is that it has a swim bladder capable of directly infusing oxygen to the blood vessels, something which lungs of terrestrial animals can do.

In the Amazon river alone, there are already three subspecies of the arowana fish, all stemming from the evolutionary branch of Osteoglossum (bony mouths). Since people started breeding these fishes outside the Amazon, there are already other species which can be found in Asia and Africa. The Amazonian arowana boasts a slender and broad body, but the newer species are shorter and stockier compared to the original generation.

Domestic fishes nowadays are getting smaller and more colorful; people tend to flock around fishes which look "cute" with vibrant colors resembling that of neon lights and commercial inks. With this trend, the arowana fish is reduced to just becoming a living fossil, a fish with jurassic and grotesque features. However, one should see the beauty in these fishes, and this beauty is not something many people take for granted. Just like in any beauty pageant, certain criteria, all set to critics' and experts' highest standards must be met.

One, there are the proportions, and for the arowana fish, the broad look is becoming more of the trend: wide body with well-proportioned fins and a pointed mouth forming a good slope between the head and its back. This look gives them the look of strength. Second is the color which should be bright, uniform, and lustrous with the hue depending on the variety. 

The scales should also be of the same color to each other and should be distinct from one another. Third are the fins, which should be not too long and cramped and should have a color not far from the body color. The barbels should also have the same color as that of the body's and should also look firm and long.

Fourth are the eyes, which should not be popping out and protruding. Fifth is the mouth, and the mouth of the arowana fish points upwards where either the upper or the lower lip protrudes. Sixth are the teeth which should look neatly arranged in line with its jaw. Lastly, and most importantly, is its swimming posture. Even though it looks like a misfit with its size and features, an arowana will always stand out because of its smooth and majestic movements; the swimming posture should not look shaky and erratic.

Arowana Care: Arowana 101

Popularly known as a household pet, the arowana fish is a freshwater bony fish which belongs to the Family Osteoglossidae (coming from the Greek words osteos meaning "bone" and glossa meaning "tongue"; literally bony-tongued). This name is gotten from the fact that their tongues have a "tooth" which they use to grind against the tooth in the roof of their mouths. Another interesting about the mouths of the arowana is that they use them to hatch their eggs, an adaptation known as buccal incubation. In fact, on average, an arowana can hold hundreds of eggs in its mouth, where the young ones would eventually feed.

These fishes have a bony head and an elongated, slender body. Their scales, shaped by the turbidity of their natural habitats, are large and heavy with mosaic patterns and canals; in some species, the scales even acquire a glossy and reflective surface. Aside from these scales, their fin patterns also give the arowana fish a distinct look. Their dorsal and anal fins have soft rays and are long based, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small. Also, they are known as obligatory air breathers, fishes which need to fill their swimbladders with air not only to float, but also to obtain oxygen. These swimbladders resemble the lungs in the sense that they are lined with arteries and veins.

The arowana fish is naturally carnivorous, and are shaped by evolution to be excellent surface feeders: they get their food by jumping. Specialized muscles and aerodynamic body shape enable them to become powerful jumpers, some noting that they can jump as high as 6 feet. These heights suit their diet of flying insects, small arboreal mammals, and low flying bats. Two species of the arowanas are found in the Neotropical region, one in the Southeast Asian region, and two in New Guinea.

Having an arowana fish as a pet can be tricky, but the rewards make the struggle all worth it. That's why there are certain points and tricks to remember on how to maximize the joy from keeping an arowana. First, arowanas are really huge fishes with sizes averaging to 37 inches, and they like to be alone. Many hobbyists, however, had found ways to mix in a little bit of a company with large and active fishes like plecostomus catfish and tinfoil barbs; others which are smaller and weaker tend to be dinner. Second, they move around A LOT, and that's why there needs to be a sandy base and a huge room for movement. To keep them from being stationary, however, many enthusiasts had already seen the benefits of placing a table tennis ball in the tank; something which is moving.

Third, they need a hell lot of nutrition, and it is better if it is alive. Be careful, however, not to introduce disease. Also, fat should be avoided as to prevent the drop eye disease. Variety should also be introduced as to prevent the onset of nutritional deficiencies, as well as the fishes getting tired of the diet. Mixes of insects, chopped meat, and pellets have been proven effective.

Fourth, it should also be known that they are naturally shaped to become excellent jumpers; they jump randomly. This calls for a tight lid. Lastly are the tank conditions; something an arowana fish tends to be meticulous about. The water should be fresh and have a well-kept pH level of 7 (neutral). The temperature also should not be far from 80 Fahrenheit, since the arowana is an equatorial fish. Again, because of its size, be prepared to have huge space for a tank which holds about 50 to 120 gallons.

The rest is for the arowana fish to ask for.

Arowana Secrets, The Most Beautiful Freshwater Fish in the World?

If you are a fish lover or fish keeper or just have an interest in some of the more exotic and mysterious creatures that inhabit our planet then let me introduce you to the 'Arowana' fish.

Considered by many to be the most beautiful freshwater fish in the world with a number of different species found in spectacular colors, the most colorful of varieties to be found in Asian rivers surrounding the Indonesian islands of Kalimantan, Sumatra, and Papua.

'Arowana' from the Indonesian word 'arwana' or 'Airwana' which in English means 'paradise' is often called the 'paradise fish' by native Indonesians. Highly revered in the orient for its spiritual significance as a re-incarnation of the Chinese dragon, signifying auspiciousness, prosperity and wealth, and even Looks a bit 'dragon'; like with its large scales and barbells and its vibrant colors, the Arowana fish has become a popular favorite with serious fish keepers world wide.

Like many exotic fish that have become popular as pets all over the world Many species of arowana are now considered to be endangered in the wild and as such are protected under law. They are farmed though and can be bought in many spectacular colors and exported under strict license laws, with each fish having to be microchiped and certified for transport before leaving Asia.

Arowana fish can carry quite a high price tag, depending on a number of factors, such as, the particular variety, the age, younger fish are generally cheaper but are a riskier purchase as the fish hasn't fully developed and its colors can't be reliably predicted when it reaches maturity, so its probably better to buy a fish that's at least two years old, though it will cost you more. Some of these fish can be worth up to $250.000 but can be bought for a few hundred dollars, the less colorful varieties usually being the cheapest.

A fantastic creature to own and surprisingly hardy, they are a great investment as arowana can live for Up to 20 yrs or more in the right conditions. Be prepared to buy a large tank though, as arowana can grow up to 40" long, tank size will need to be about 2' x 8' in size depending on the fish variety.

Keeping arowana does require some dedication especially if you want to do all that's possible to bring out its vibrant colors, and can be quite tedious, though a lot of keepers claim to form a strong bond with there precious pet and though they are a challenge the doting keeper would say that they are well worth the effort.

Need Help to Select Live Plant Species for My First Freshwater Aquarium

My first step to a planted aquarium

Who wouldn't like an organic freshwater planted aquarium compared to chemically boosted nest for their lovely pets. It is therefore essential to simulate growth of bacteria in your first planted aquarium built from scratch to help develop nutritious substrates and fertilizing agents. Under these circumstances, we go with no lights, zero fish or plants after addition of substrate. The core purpose being to allow the water to circulate and "offgas" for up to 2 or 3 days maximum before we start planting.

What kind of plants should I grow?

Ozelot Sword, one of the South American decorative plants is considered an excellent beginner's plant with an elliptical black spots on elongated reddish-brown or bright green leaves. The spots are darker on younger leaves, but remain even on mature leaves and even under low light conditions. It has a fast growth rate and can rise up to 40 cm. It is an undemanding, tolerant plant and grows happily in a wide array of conditions, including unheated tanks and those with very hard water. This plant may send up flower stalks to the surface, producing small white flowers with around 12 hours of sunlight. Place a ball of substrate gold in gravel to fertilize and feed the plant.

Narrow Leaf Java Fern is a lush, mid-ground plant often used to decorate rocks and driftwood. Java Fern is hardy plant that does not require much care. It's roots attach to the surface it is planted on. It should therefore be planted on a rock or driftwood. Java Fern can be kept in brackish tanks. It requires low lighting otherwise could melt and develop tansparent patches. It could be poisonous and so is ignored by herbivorous fish.

Cryptocoryne Wendtii comes in green, red and bronze colored variable leaves. It grows submersed in south Asian waters in bogs. Cryptocorynes are sensitive to change and therefore should only be moved when neccesary. They feed from roots and so the substrate should be rich in fertilizers and does best in warm weather.

Anubias Nana also known as "dwarf anubias" bears tough, waxy, dark green leaves sprouting from thick rhizome. It grows parallel to the ground and adheres to rocks or woods. Advantages are less need for lighting and nutrients for growth. Rooting it's rhizome under gravel could lead to it's death and need to be taken care of.

While there could be many aquarium plants like Amazon sword plant, Vallisneria, Aponogeton, etc depending upon the climatic conditions and ecological balance of your planted aquarium the above are most suitable to meet major changes and make the aquarium environment look pleasant and colorful for the health benefits of both fishes and human beings

Advantages and dis-advantages of a planted aquarium:

• It absorbs carbon-di-oxide - CO2 in daylight
• Releases oxygne - O2 during daytime
• Absorbs toxins
• Harbors beneficial bacteria
• Serves as a great food source to herbivirous fishes
• Inhibits algae growth

Main disadvantages of having a planted aquarium could be development of parasites and generation of debris from dead leaves and plants that could block the filter. Regular maintenance can help in prevention of these.

The Ultimate Way To Move Your Prized Fish Tank Safely

Tanks typically are very heavy and fragile which means tremendous care and attention will have to be used when trying to move around them. Though it is true far more care is called for whenever you are relocating a tank from a single house hold to another almost the same amount is without question appropriate as you are simply just transporting an aquarium from one room in your home to another.

Step one with transporting a fish tank is to gently move your fish straight into a different holder so that they don't get harmed. Take some of the water from the tank and pour it into a plastic container into which you may add the animals. Keep your fish at a reasonable ambient temperature and quite dimly lit in order that they do not get anxious.

If your animals are safe it is time to undertake the next step which involves removing the same amount water as feasible. Surprisingly on a brief drive water might lead to problems as it is heavy and can make the home or automobile wet. You'll want to preserve the existing water so it may be put spine into any aquarium when you are set-up once more.

Electronic apparatus needs to be turned off and stripped away from the aquarium tank. Fish tank heating elements should be able to cool-down well before they are taken off or you may take a chance on inducing problems for yourself. Internal filters should be removed and put into some existing water from the tank to keep them in good shape while outside filter systems can merely have their tubes removed.

In advance of when you relocate the actual tank itself you'll want to delicately evaluate the direction you will likely be going with. If you are moving it within any household then ensure ones walkway is clear of what you may could trip over. In case you are moving around it to a fresh household then give consideration to covering ones tank for your fish with some thick items in order to prevent damage.

Unless you personally own a small tank it is prudent to have support with regard to carrying the tank. Several individuals can take more care over the action and be certain that no wear and tear is done to you or the fish tank. Make sure to always maintain a vertical back and carry it as near to your own body as you can.

You should have a place equipped to put ones tank down when you get to ones destination and then you certainly can begin putting it back together. Refill the tank with the treated water you collected and attach all the electrically powered tank supplies you employ. This will begin to clean the treated water and heat it up ready for any fish. As soon as the water is ready be certain to be safe to change the aquarium inhabitants having efficiently transferred any fish tank.

The Best Tank Setup For Your Betta

When it comes to betta tank setup, size does matter. While most bettas can survive in very small containers, they will live long, quality lives only when placed in tanks no smaller than a gallon or two. Bettas have an organ called the "labyrinth", which allows them to breathe oxygen as humans do, and also allows them to survive outside water for longer periods of time. However, this does not give you the excuse to house your betta in a small jar. 

Actually, I find no problem with bettas being kept in small jars since most betta breeders in Thailand and other parts of Asia practice this with much success. The problem is if you cannot find the time to change the water of your betta's jar on a regular basis. Unlike with other aquarium fish, betta fish's water should be replaced at a more frequent basis if their long and flowy fins are to remain beautiful and vibrant. Therefore, if you want to choose the best tank setup for your betta, you should consider these essential things:

1.) Tank Size - Again, tank size matters. However, if you can't provide a tank larger than 5 gallons for your betta, you should be prepared to perform water changes every 3-5 days.

2.) Filtration - Bettas that are kept in tanks below 2.5 gallons can live without filtration. However, full water changes every 2-3 days are a requirement. If you house your bettas on tanks 5 gallons and up, you should get a filtration system since it is more difficult to perform full water changes on larger tanks.

3.) Heater - If you live in Asia like me, heaters are not necessary. However, if you live in countries that experience cold seasons, you definitely need a heater for your betta. Ideal temperature for a betta's water is between 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit. If you keep your fish in tanks smaller than 5 gallons, it would be ideal to get a small heater as regular sized heaters can heat up smaller tanks fast. Or, keep your tank in a warm room.

4.) Massive Water Changes - To give you an idea on how frequent you should change your betta's water, refer below:

Tank Size and Frequency of Water Change

Below 2.5 gallons- Every 2-3 days (100% water change)

2.5 to 5 gallons (Filtered/Unfiltered)- Every 3-5 days (100% water change)

5 gallons and up (Filtered)- Twice a month with 25% water changes once a week

5.) Accessories - I personally do not recommend adding accessories to tanks if you are keeping bettas with long and flowy fins such as halfmoons and crowntails. However, if you wish add accessories such as live or plastic plants, make sure they do not have very sharp or pointed edges that might tear your betta's fins. 

Like most breeders, I keep my 2.5 gallon betta tanks bare, with no pebbles (substrate), no plants, and no accessories whatsoever. The reason is that these accessories make tank cleaning very difficult. By leaving my tank bare, all I need to do when it's time to clean my betta's tank is siphon all the poop and dirt out and replace the water.

Cycling a New Cichlid Fish Aquarium

With a new aquarium, cycling your tank is the first and most important thing you need to do. This is the process in which your aquarium needs to establish good bacteria. When you first setup your aquarium it will be contaminated with bad bacteria. Before putting cichlid fish into the tank it is important that this bad (harmful) bacteria converts into good bacteria. The first stage of bacteria will break down ammonia into nitrites, and the second stage of bacteria will break down the nitrites into nitrates. Both ammonia and nitrites are harmful to your fish, but nitrates are not, as long as they are at a safe level (below 20ppm).

There are two ways to cycle your tank: with or without fish. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, but most fish enthusiasts prefer to do a fishless cycle. Doing a fishless cycle (which I recommend) has many more advantages: it's faster, easier, and avoids permanently harming fish. Plus, the water will be completely ready for fish once the cycle is finished.

Fishless Cycle

One effective way of doing a fishless cycle is to use media, gravel, sand, or decor from another (disease free) aquarium that already has good bacteria established. If you can't find any of these materials, you can purchase bacteria in a bottle from your local fish store. Also, during this process I suggest raising the temperature in the aquarium to around 85 degrees, this allows for a faster chemical reaction.

Cycling with fish

If you decide to go the other route, then you will need hardy fish that can withstand these harmful water conditions; I suggest using either tetras or guppies. Cycling your tank with fish can take anywhere between 4-6 weeks for the nitrates to become established. You will need to do frequent water changes (20%) 3-4 times a week until the cycle is complete. Of course if you are doing a cichlid fish aquarium you will need to remove the starter fish before adding any cichlids to the tank.

Conclusion

Whichever method you chose, it is important to realize that this can be time-consuming(3-6 weeks), therefore patience is a virtue. It is also important to constantly test your water during this process to ensure that your tank is cycling properly. I recommend using a liquid test kit rather than the basic test strips. Make sure before you add sensitive fish, your nitrates are at, or below 20ppm.