Arowana Care: There's a Fossil in My Tank!

The Amazon River is probably the most widely used poster image for biodiversity; the whole stretch of freshwater running for miles is the home to a huge fraction of the world's flora and fauna. Among the animals which live here, the fishes have the most number and most diverse. One of the well-known and well-loved fish species is what people call as the "water monkey of the Amazon" -- the arowana fish.

The earliest fossils of the ancestors of the arowanafish date to 200 million years ago in the rivers of Africa, but the fish we know today found its home in the Amazon River 140 millions of years ago, dating back to the Early Cretaceous period. Ever since then, given its superb features, the fish had changed very little; hence it is sometimes called as a living fossil. That is why the arowana does not look like the modern pet fishes which are commercially available; they boast a history dating millions of years back. 

This fish can grow to lengths of four to six feet, all thirty pounds of pure muscle which gives them excellent darting abilities. They also have huge eyes which led some ecologists to assume that they have one of the sharpest sights of all the fishes. Another tell tale sign of it being a living fossil is that it has a swim bladder capable of directly infusing oxygen to the blood vessels, something which lungs of terrestrial animals can do.

In the Amazon river alone, there are already three subspecies of the arowana fish, all stemming from the evolutionary branch of Osteoglossum (bony mouths). Since people started breeding these fishes outside the Amazon, there are already other species which can be found in Asia and Africa. The Amazonian arowana boasts a slender and broad body, but the newer species are shorter and stockier compared to the original generation.

Domestic fishes nowadays are getting smaller and more colorful; people tend to flock around fishes which look "cute" with vibrant colors resembling that of neon lights and commercial inks. With this trend, the arowana fish is reduced to just becoming a living fossil, a fish with jurassic and grotesque features. However, one should see the beauty in these fishes, and this beauty is not something many people take for granted. Just like in any beauty pageant, certain criteria, all set to critics' and experts' highest standards must be met.

One, there are the proportions, and for the arowana fish, the broad look is becoming more of the trend: wide body with well-proportioned fins and a pointed mouth forming a good slope between the head and its back. This look gives them the look of strength. Second is the color which should be bright, uniform, and lustrous with the hue depending on the variety. 

The scales should also be of the same color to each other and should be distinct from one another. Third are the fins, which should be not too long and cramped and should have a color not far from the body color. The barbels should also have the same color as that of the body's and should also look firm and long.

Fourth are the eyes, which should not be popping out and protruding. Fifth is the mouth, and the mouth of the arowana fish points upwards where either the upper or the lower lip protrudes. Sixth are the teeth which should look neatly arranged in line with its jaw. Lastly, and most importantly, is its swimming posture. Even though it looks like a misfit with its size and features, an arowana will always stand out because of its smooth and majestic movements; the swimming posture should not look shaky and erratic.

Arowana Care: Arowana 101

Popularly known as a household pet, the arowana fish is a freshwater bony fish which belongs to the Family Osteoglossidae (coming from the Greek words osteos meaning "bone" and glossa meaning "tongue"; literally bony-tongued). This name is gotten from the fact that their tongues have a "tooth" which they use to grind against the tooth in the roof of their mouths. Another interesting about the mouths of the arowana is that they use them to hatch their eggs, an adaptation known as buccal incubation. In fact, on average, an arowana can hold hundreds of eggs in its mouth, where the young ones would eventually feed.

These fishes have a bony head and an elongated, slender body. Their scales, shaped by the turbidity of their natural habitats, are large and heavy with mosaic patterns and canals; in some species, the scales even acquire a glossy and reflective surface. Aside from these scales, their fin patterns also give the arowana fish a distinct look. Their dorsal and anal fins have soft rays and are long based, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small. Also, they are known as obligatory air breathers, fishes which need to fill their swimbladders with air not only to float, but also to obtain oxygen. These swimbladders resemble the lungs in the sense that they are lined with arteries and veins.

The arowana fish is naturally carnivorous, and are shaped by evolution to be excellent surface feeders: they get their food by jumping. Specialized muscles and aerodynamic body shape enable them to become powerful jumpers, some noting that they can jump as high as 6 feet. These heights suit their diet of flying insects, small arboreal mammals, and low flying bats. Two species of the arowanas are found in the Neotropical region, one in the Southeast Asian region, and two in New Guinea.

Having an arowana fish as a pet can be tricky, but the rewards make the struggle all worth it. That's why there are certain points and tricks to remember on how to maximize the joy from keeping an arowana. First, arowanas are really huge fishes with sizes averaging to 37 inches, and they like to be alone. Many hobbyists, however, had found ways to mix in a little bit of a company with large and active fishes like plecostomus catfish and tinfoil barbs; others which are smaller and weaker tend to be dinner. Second, they move around A LOT, and that's why there needs to be a sandy base and a huge room for movement. To keep them from being stationary, however, many enthusiasts had already seen the benefits of placing a table tennis ball in the tank; something which is moving.

Third, they need a hell lot of nutrition, and it is better if it is alive. Be careful, however, not to introduce disease. Also, fat should be avoided as to prevent the drop eye disease. Variety should also be introduced as to prevent the onset of nutritional deficiencies, as well as the fishes getting tired of the diet. Mixes of insects, chopped meat, and pellets have been proven effective.

Fourth, it should also be known that they are naturally shaped to become excellent jumpers; they jump randomly. This calls for a tight lid. Lastly are the tank conditions; something an arowana fish tends to be meticulous about. The water should be fresh and have a well-kept pH level of 7 (neutral). The temperature also should not be far from 80 Fahrenheit, since the arowana is an equatorial fish. Again, because of its size, be prepared to have huge space for a tank which holds about 50 to 120 gallons.

The rest is for the arowana fish to ask for.

Arowana Secrets, The Most Beautiful Freshwater Fish in the World?

If you are a fish lover or fish keeper or just have an interest in some of the more exotic and mysterious creatures that inhabit our planet then let me introduce you to the 'Arowana' fish.

Considered by many to be the most beautiful freshwater fish in the world with a number of different species found in spectacular colors, the most colorful of varieties to be found in Asian rivers surrounding the Indonesian islands of Kalimantan, Sumatra, and Papua.

'Arowana' from the Indonesian word 'arwana' or 'Airwana' which in English means 'paradise' is often called the 'paradise fish' by native Indonesians. Highly revered in the orient for its spiritual significance as a re-incarnation of the Chinese dragon, signifying auspiciousness, prosperity and wealth, and even Looks a bit 'dragon'; like with its large scales and barbells and its vibrant colors, the Arowana fish has become a popular favorite with serious fish keepers world wide.

Like many exotic fish that have become popular as pets all over the world Many species of arowana are now considered to be endangered in the wild and as such are protected under law. They are farmed though and can be bought in many spectacular colors and exported under strict license laws, with each fish having to be microchiped and certified for transport before leaving Asia.

Arowana fish can carry quite a high price tag, depending on a number of factors, such as, the particular variety, the age, younger fish are generally cheaper but are a riskier purchase as the fish hasn't fully developed and its colors can't be reliably predicted when it reaches maturity, so its probably better to buy a fish that's at least two years old, though it will cost you more. Some of these fish can be worth up to $250.000 but can be bought for a few hundred dollars, the less colorful varieties usually being the cheapest.

A fantastic creature to own and surprisingly hardy, they are a great investment as arowana can live for Up to 20 yrs or more in the right conditions. Be prepared to buy a large tank though, as arowana can grow up to 40" long, tank size will need to be about 2' x 8' in size depending on the fish variety.

Keeping arowana does require some dedication especially if you want to do all that's possible to bring out its vibrant colors, and can be quite tedious, though a lot of keepers claim to form a strong bond with there precious pet and though they are a challenge the doting keeper would say that they are well worth the effort.

The Best Tank Setup For Your Betta

When it comes to betta tank setup, size does matter. While most bettas can survive in very small containers, they will live long, quality lives only when placed in tanks no smaller than a gallon or two. Bettas have an organ called the "labyrinth", which allows them to breathe oxygen as humans do, and also allows them to survive outside water for longer periods of time. However, this does not give you the excuse to house your betta in a small jar. 

Actually, I find no problem with bettas being kept in small jars since most betta breeders in Thailand and other parts of Asia practice this with much success. The problem is if you cannot find the time to change the water of your betta's jar on a regular basis. Unlike with other aquarium fish, betta fish's water should be replaced at a more frequent basis if their long and flowy fins are to remain beautiful and vibrant. Therefore, if you want to choose the best tank setup for your betta, you should consider these essential things:

1.) Tank Size - Again, tank size matters. However, if you can't provide a tank larger than 5 gallons for your betta, you should be prepared to perform water changes every 3-5 days.

2.) Filtration - Bettas that are kept in tanks below 2.5 gallons can live without filtration. However, full water changes every 2-3 days are a requirement. If you house your bettas on tanks 5 gallons and up, you should get a filtration system since it is more difficult to perform full water changes on larger tanks.

3.) Heater - If you live in Asia like me, heaters are not necessary. However, if you live in countries that experience cold seasons, you definitely need a heater for your betta. Ideal temperature for a betta's water is between 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit. If you keep your fish in tanks smaller than 5 gallons, it would be ideal to get a small heater as regular sized heaters can heat up smaller tanks fast. Or, keep your tank in a warm room.

4.) Massive Water Changes - To give you an idea on how frequent you should change your betta's water, refer below:

Tank Size and Frequency of Water Change

Below 2.5 gallons- Every 2-3 days (100% water change)

2.5 to 5 gallons (Filtered/Unfiltered)- Every 3-5 days (100% water change)

5 gallons and up (Filtered)- Twice a month with 25% water changes once a week

5.) Accessories - I personally do not recommend adding accessories to tanks if you are keeping bettas with long and flowy fins such as halfmoons and crowntails. However, if you wish add accessories such as live or plastic plants, make sure they do not have very sharp or pointed edges that might tear your betta's fins. 

Like most breeders, I keep my 2.5 gallon betta tanks bare, with no pebbles (substrate), no plants, and no accessories whatsoever. The reason is that these accessories make tank cleaning very difficult. By leaving my tank bare, all I need to do when it's time to clean my betta's tank is siphon all the poop and dirt out and replace the water.

There Is More Than One Way To Build An Aquarium - Even Without Fish

Aquariums are pretty amazing. They are essentially taken for granted by many (although still fascinated) but if you stop to think about it, a fish tank is an entire ecosystem built into one box, complete with life giving water, food, bacteria, plant life, and more. To think that anyone anywhere has the power to build and support one of these amazing eco-system is mind blowing. In a way we are playing God to the fish, coral, and the entire habitat. The fish are usually merely ONE of the living things being supported by your aquarium though.

The variety of fish is vast and there is an incredibly complex variety of fish species, but it's actually possible to create a tank that has no fish in it and still enjoy it immensely! Many people look at fish tanks in stores and only really pay close attention to living things that moving around in the tank, the fish. The reality is that some tanks are completely alive. With the exception of the rocks (wait, some rocks may not be rocks but living creatures own their own) everything in an aquarium can be alive.

You could effectively create a tank that is 80% life and only 20% inanimate objects: the tank itself, rocks on the bottom (pebbles), any decorative items such as a treasure chest, fake plants, and other items. At first glance and without the foresight/knowledge, it may be hard to figure out what life is in the aquarium. There are actually quite a few forms of life you can put in your tank.

* coral for the rocks and underwater mountains 

* water plants that help clean the water 

* marine algae that forms naturally 

* and the ever present "sucker fish" to eat and clean the algae

As you can see, it's pretty easy to have an aquarium that is full of life but doesn't contain what we normally think of as fish. You can, of course always add fish to this equation to add even more (or more obvious) life to the mix.

Some forms of plants are very active and move around much like a fish. The tentacles of some plants are fascinating to watch and although at first you may thing the plant is swaying back and forth due to the currents in the tank but the reality is that the plant itself is moving on it's own and it is creating the currents in an otherwise standing water tank. The benefits of this are that the water is essentially "stirred" up and makes sure that debris is filtered properly.

Essentials Before You "Fish" Around For An Aquarium

People love the companionship of pets. Pets tend to have a symbiotic relationship with people and although they tend to be self-sufficient (cats, hamsters, etc...) so long as you provide an environment they can thrive in and provide the essentials of life they can't get on their own. 

Some pets take more work than others to take care of but one of the nice things about fish and aquariums are that other than having to clean the tank once a month, feeding them daily, and allowing a filtering system to clean the water automatically, they are essentially worry free.

One thing that makes fish a lot of fun is that you can build and maintain, even change their environment whenever you want to change its appeal (to both you and the fish). Human nature states that we're creative beings with the ability to manifest what we want through cause and effect. A fish, however, simply lives in the environment, a non sentient being that requires us to take care of it. 

This symbiotic relationship mean that we need each other and can provide one another some relaxation and intrigue. A fish can be an intriguing pet, but as a care taker we not only are required to make sure the fish can survive in his new aquarium, but we can also build it for our own pleasure, eye candy and meditative calm.

Although the aquarium is designed to assure the fish survives and is happy, it's built as much for our enjoyment as it is for the fish. This means that building an aquarium can be a great therapeutic tool, a way to teach children responsibility, and to bring a new dimension to a room, bringing life and beauty together. 

There's just something cool about a fish tank that makes people want to look and observe the simple life of a fish. There are many types of fish to choose from, some are friendly towards other fish, some with only specific non predatory fish, and others must be alone.

When choosing what type of fish you want, you need to consider how much your willing to put into taking care of the fish. There are many species of fish that require nothing more than a cleaning system (filter for the water) and a thorough cleaning monthly (rocks, internal components of the scenery in the tank), maybe even bi-weekly depending on the fish and the amount of fish in the tank. 

There are also fish that require a specific environment such as water with salt in it (saltwater fish), a specific balance of chemicals in the water, a consistent temperature (cold or warm), and others that require special care that goes far beyond just set it and forget it until the cleaning.

It's best to do your homework on the fish you want BEFORE you start figuring out what kind of tank you want. If you get the wrong tank, it is more difficult to get the water balanced correctly and you could kill the fishes. 

Fish are fascinating, and you may want to start out with the easy type to take care of and a small tank. You can evolve into the different types of fish, but be sure to get different tanks for different fish that require specific environmental controls as stated above. There is much to learn about fish. They are not just benign creatures, they are full of life and experience emotions just like we do. Learning about fish is a wonderful experience, and the fish depends on you for it's happiness.

Give Your Children A Fun And Exciting Way To Learn About Sea Life With An Aquarium

Aquariums are fascinating to look at- especially if you go to a pet store and see all the wonderful configurations, types of fish, and all the many variables involved. Building a fish tank ecosystem (habitat) can be a simple thing or very complex. Depending on what you want in your aquarium, your tank could take on a unique and intriguing life of it's own. Much like cats are practically maintenance free except for needing to feed them and clean out their litter box, fish are much the same way.

Although cleaning out a large tank or a tank with a complex array of "innards" is no easy or even fun task to take on twice or more a month, this can actually be a lot of fun if you involve your children. If you show your kids how to build a tank, picking all the elements, going online and learning about the various fish you saw in the pet store, and picking what they want they will have the opportunity to learn a lot.

Kids are naturally curious and if you teach them early how to research about the fish and what is involved in building an aquarium, you teach them a valuable skill set they can use throughout the rest of their lives. It used to be that the only way to learn was to go to the pet store and depend on the knowledge of the sales staff or check out books from the library about fish. Today, with the advent of the internet and the plethora of informative sites on just about every type of fish and plant life, building and researching an aquarium is now easier than before.

Building your tank is a holistic experience. It's one that teaches responsibility, can be a lot of fun trying out different fish over the years, and it prepares kids for life's many responsible moments by showing them the details, execution, and on going lessons that owning a fish can entail.

To build a tank, you should first show your kids how to find information on fish. Show them that there are different fish that can't survive together or that can't survive in each others ecosystem. An example is salt water fish can't live and thrive in fresh water, while fresh water fish can't live and thrive (and will surely die) in salt water. Then you can show them how some fish are hunters and will attack other species of fish.

Once you learn all you can about the fish, reverse engineer and build the best habitat for the fish types you want. That way you'll have the greatest chance of success and you can really bring life to the home!

The Benefits of the Vinegar Nematode

The vinegar nematode has a lot of advantages to other types of nematodes. There are four common kinds of nematodes in similar size ranges that are fed to fish and fry as live fish foods. These include microworms, banana worms, Walter's worms, and vinegar eels. Microworms, banana worms, and Walter's worms are all grown in a medium of grain often oatmeal, cornmeal, baby cereal, or mashed potatoes. However, vinegar eels have four main advantages over these other nematodes.

• First of all, they are grown in vinegar. While many people dislike the smell of apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar they never smell different then that. On the other hand, the other types of nematodes can smell bad. In fact, the older they get, the worse they smell. Over time, they get to the point where they smell horrible. If the cultures go bad then the smell is even worse and can make your stomach feel upset.
• Next it should be noted that vinegar eels are easy. Microworms and other nematodes often require you to add food about once a week. Then after two or three weeks they need to be started over. This can be time-consuming, especially if you have large cultures or a number of them. On the other hand, the vinegar eel culture only needs a bit of food added to it once a month and it will last for a minimum of three months, but often up to six.
• The next thing that should be noted is that vinegar eels are a lot easier for fry and fish to eat. The other nematodes drown and they live on the surface of sour paste. The microworm is called the sour paste nematode. However, when added to the water they slowly sink to the bottom. They can then crawl into the substrate or sand if they are not eaten by snails or bottom feeders. Finally, they can die and add waste to your water quality. On the other hand, vinegar eels swim. They stick at the top of the surface and stay there. This makes it easier for them to be eaten by the fry and can even be seen by larger fish who might miss the sinking microworms.
• The vinegar eels can live for days in the water. In fact, they may be able to live for weeks, but it's hard to know because the fish will grab them up. Because they can live in the water and they aren't going to die before the fish eat them, they also won't add waste to your water.

These benefits make them more appealing to many than the microworms, banana worms, or Walter's worms. These easy to keep cultures can be set up, set aside, and brought out when you need them. A starter culture of the vinegar nematode is inexpensive, and if you start a regular new culture you will be able to keep them forever.

Aquarium Design - Rocks

One of the key ingredients of any aquarium design is rock. Properly chosen, prepared and positioned rocks can transform an otherwise clinical setup environment into an attractive replica of actual natural habitat of the fish and plant.

It is important to note that rocks are not all identical in terms of composition nor are they all suitable for your aquarium. It is important for you to do some tests to check if the rocks are safe before you dump them into your fish tank. To a certain extent, the type of rocks that you can safely use depends on the type of fish and plant species.

The recommended type of rocks for freshwater aquarium are collectively known as inert rocks. This group of rocks includes basalt, obsidian, coal, quartz, sandstone and shale. As the name suggest, this class of rock does not affect water chemistry. It is a safe choice for freshwater aquarium.

Calcareous rocks alter the pH level and raise hardness of the water. This is in direct contrast to inert rock that is known to be aquarium safe. Some calcareous rock varieties include chalk, limestone and marble. These types of rocks are good for hard water or brackish aquariums particularly if the intention is to raise the pH level or hardness of the water without having to resort to chemical treatment.

How To Test The Rock

There is a simple way to determine if a rock is safe for your aquarium. Here is what you ought to do. Firstly, fill a bucket with water from a source that your normally use for instance tap water or preferably old aquarium water.

Note down the pH, hardness, nitrates and the phosphates level of the water. Put the rock into the bucket and let it soak for a week or so and then test the water again. Compare the readings before and after the soaking. If the subsequent readings do not deviate much from the original readings, the rock is not likely to adversely affect your aquarium.

Another simple test is what is called the' vinegar test'. Put a few drops of white vinegar on the rock. The rock is deemed calcareous if the solution foams. You should not use this rock unless your intention is to alter the water chemistry.

How To Prepare The Rock

Once you have confirmed that the rock is aquarium safe, the first thing that you need to do is to disinfect it. You need to get rid of pathogens that might reside within the rock crevices. Start by brushing and rinsing debris off the rock surface. Next, cook it in hot water and allow it to dry in the sun before placing it in the aquarium.

Choosing suitable rocks for your aquarium design and decoration is not a difficult task. All that is required of you is some knowledge on how to test the rock to ensure it does not alter the water chemistry that may affect your fish and plant.

Maintaining Cichlid's Water

If you're still a beginner in the hobby of raising and keeping cichlids, the seemingly complicated specifications of water chemistry may have you worried. However, believe it or not, obtaining and maintaining the correct water chemistry for your cichlid fish may be less complicated than you think. There are three important properties that need to be measured and adjusted in order to give your cichlids the most ideal water chemistry possible. Those three are pH, GH, and KH.

pH 

Having the correct pH balance in your cichlid's water is probably the most important part of good water chemistry. Your water's pH balance describes whether it is more acidic, more alkaline, or just plain neutral. If your water tests for a pH balance of seven, this means it is perfectly neutral - an ideal balance for most fish. Any number greater than seven means it has an alkaline balance, and any number less than seven means it is acidic.

Even the slightest changes in the pH balance of your water can upset your delicate cichlids so try to keep a stable level. If you need to make adjustments, be sure that you don't raise or lower the level by more than a third of a point per day. Keep in mind that each number on the pH scale signifies a difference of ten times more or less acidity or alkalinity than the numbers adjacent to it. A reading of six - just one point less than a neutral seven - means your water is ten times more acidic.

General Hardness (GH) 

The hardness of your water is measured by the amount of calcium and magnesium it contains. Many African cichlids are happiest in an aquarium with a GH level that hovers somewhere between 160 and 320 parts per million. Because calcium and magnesium do not keep for very long in water, your aquarium's GH level will steadily drop if not manually adjusted. There are various scales used to measure water hardness so make sure to determine which of them your testing kit is using before judging the results.

Carbonate Hardness (KH) 

The carbonate hardness level of your water describes the level of carbonates and bicarbonates it contains. It measures your water's ability to keep a stable pH level, which, as we know, is crucial to the survival of your cichlids. With a sufficiently high KH level, your water will maintain its pH balance even through various changes. The right amount of carbonates and bicarbonates acts like a vacuum cleaner, absorbing any harmful additives before they affect the acidity of your precious water. A good KH range is usually somewhere between 180 to 240 parts per million.

Testing 

It's important to test your aquarium's water for these three properties to ensure that your fish are as healthy as they can be. Having the correct levels in all three of these categories will contribute to happier, prettier cichlids that will live longer, more natural lives.

One of the most accurate water testing kits is the API liquid test kit, which comes with a number of different tests for various minerals. As a rule, liquid drop test kits are generally of better quality than the cheaper but less accurate test strips.

How to Adjust and Maintain pH and KH 

Because cichlids are so vulnerable to even the slightest changes in their water chemistry, if you need to adjust any of these levels, it's important to do so slowly. Adding one teaspoon of baking soda for every five gallons of water in your tank can help to slowly begin raising its pH and KH balance if needed, but make sure that you add it slowly(too fast can harm the fish). This should be dissolved ahead of time in a glass of aquarium water.

Each time you do a water change, you will need to add 1 teaspoon of baking soda for every 5 gallons that you take out. For example, if you take out 30 gallons of water, you will need to put 6 teaspoons of baking soda in. This should also be dissolved before adding it to the aquarium.

Lowering your pH balance is much trickier as you first need to obliterate the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water, after which you can then lower the pH. Driftwood and sodium biphosphate both contain acids that will get the job done nicely, but be sure to keep a close eye on your water. After you are finished the process, restore your water's KH balance with crushed coral, limestone, or oyster shell.

Caring for Your Discus Fish

Discus are a popular tropical fish species to keep in the home. If looked after they can live for quite a few years but on average it is four to five. There are some key tips for keeping Discus Fish in good condition. Some of these are typical to all tropical fish and some are specific to Discus.

As they are quite a large fish, they need a lot of space and a large tropical fish tank should be used. The size will vary depending on how many fish you intend to keep but a tank of at least 40 gallons should be used.

The temperature needs to be kept at a fairly constant and Discus like it quite hot (about 82-86 deg Fahrenheit). To maintain this temperature, the tank should be kept away from sources of cold and heat such as draughts from windows and external doors, direct sunlight and fires or radiators. A reliable aquarium heater should be used, and if you have a large tank it is worth having more than one to distribute the heat evenly and as a back up.

The first time you fill the fish tank it should be left for two to three weeks for the filters to settle in and the water should be treated with a chemical agent. Any fish tank equipment, ornaments or gravels need to be thoroughly washed a few times, to remove dirt and bacteria, before placing them in the water.

Discus Fish will eat a variety of foods including flakes and frozen shrimp.

The tropical fish tank should be cleaned regularly and as Discus are a large fish, they produce a lot of waste so the water should be changed, or at least partially changed on a weekly basis to ensure a healthy environment. It is also a good idea to use a large and efficient filter to as Discus need very clean water.

Discus are a communal, and generally non-aggressive species and several can be kept together. Ideally if you intend to add any new fish to the aquarium, they should be kept in a separate quarantine tank for a few days and observed for any signs of disease or other issues before introducing them into the main fish tank with other fish. Other tropical fish can be kept in the same tank but it is best to avoid other large fish or fast swimmers. Bottom feeding catfish make an ideal tank companion.

Discus's live on average four to five years but may last longer if you look after them well.

Arowana Care: Different Shades of Gold

One of the favorite fishes of hobbyists is the golden arowana fish, since not only does it intensify its association with power and wealth due to its distinct coloration, they also tend to come in different variants, and enthusiasts had even put them into a scale. One of the levels of grading golden arowanas is the Red Tail Golden (RTG) arowanas. This variant is known to have a distinct coppery development of scale coloration. However, the second and third rows of the scales give off a slightly purplish sheen. The fins are also coppery red, almost brown-red, while the row of scales directly near them ranges from dark grey to black.

Another level, and the one that holds the most prestige, is the Full Scale Gold (FSG) arowana fish. Based on its name, it is obvious that this variety boasts an almost solid pattern of gold scales. Indeed, it does, with scales which may or may not give off a purplish sheen. It is also known for a sharp black line around its eyes. Unlike the RTG arowanas, FSG arowanas have yellow-brown to solid gold pectoral and ventral fins. These features are also the ones being sought first when buying a golden arowana.

An enthusiast with an eye for an arowana fish might notice the difference, but a beginner couldn't tell an FSG from a High Back RTG. If the FSG is known for its black eye line, the High Back RTG has a blue-green or brown-red eye line; varying hues might be easily mistakened as black. Also, two-thirds down the pectoral and ventral fins, the supposedly yellow-brown or golden coloration turns coppery, sometimes dark red. Other varieties which are out in the market are relatively new, like the Malaysian gold and Australian gold, all of which are not yet known to many hobbyists.

A fully-grown adult arowana fish has a formidable countenance often cloaked in bright colors, but it does not mean it began like that as well. In fact, regardless of the variety and color, anl arowana starts off as fragile, vulnerable silver fry. In fact, they are so helpless that for the first five to six weeks, they have with them an egg sac, which provides them with food and nutrition. Their minute form also exposes them to danger, and that is why the young arowanas can be usually found in groups of ten. When they are old enough to lose their sacs, which is when the territoriality and aggressiveness kicks in while they look for themselves bugs and small aquatic animals to feed upon.

If anarowana fish is well taken care of, add to that well-kept tank conditions, it grows very rapidly, hence its reputation as being a gigantic fish. In fact, it is very noticeable that it grows and does not seem to stop. After about a year, many arowana owners see their pets reaching sizes of almost one foot! Indeed, this adaptation is really important as in their natural habitats, predators are usually of the lengths between two to three meters; something evolution shaped to make the arowana survive. Indeed, if one keeps on taking good care of the arowana, it will continue growing, given that there is enough room, food, and patience.

The arowana fish exhibits slight sexual dimorphism, as it is seen that males have bigger and deeper mouths. In mating, the two fishes will swim in pair and find a spot to make a nest, usually from mud. Once the female lays the eggs, the male inseminates them and eventually puts them in his mouth to incubate them; something unique for the arowanas.

Arowana Care: Arowanas Can Be With the Others!

The arowana fish is a formidable hunter in its natural habitats. Putting it in a tank with other fishes had proven to be a tricky endeavour; arowanas are meat eaters and highly territorial. However, knowing how the arowana behaves in the wild, one might be equipped with the knowledge on how to keep arowanas in harmony with other fishes. One thing to consider, as what had already been said, is its territoriality. 

An arowana does not want any other arowana in sight, for they will most likely compete and fight with each other -- something a fish keeper does not want to happen. However, it was shown that in groups in at least four or five fishes, the aggressive behavior are subdued.

Another thing with the arowana fish is that they it loves meat; they are carnivores. Driven by its natural instinct, therefore, one already knows that it is most likely to devour smaller and more vulnerable fishes in the tank. Knowing that, one must, as much as possible, keep the arowana away from smaller fishes. This does not mean, however, that the arowana is meant to live alone. One thing we can use to the tank's advantage is that the arowana is a surface feeder; it spends most of its time in the surface.

Given specifications about different varieties and species of domestic fishes, one is ought to find middle and bottom dwellers to go with an arowana. For instance, fishes like the blue ram, dwarf cory, or snow tetra will not only bring color to a tank, but also prove to be good companions since they are middle dwellers. In addition, bottom feeders like the janitor fish is also a good companion not only to the arowana fish, but also to the fish keeper as well; it helps with the maintenance.

Who thought that a big strange fish will attract thousands of admirers and hobbyists? Just look at the arowana fish and one will know why. It resembles the crust dragon, which is a symbol of power and good fortune. People associated this with the art of feng shui and how could one harness its luck attracting energy. This is why in Hong Kong; the belief is strong that any kind or variety of the arowana brings in luck and good energy in a household. That is why the trade for the arowanas is booming.

Most arowanas from the Asian stock have bright flaming colors which are even more identifiable with the crust dragon. This is why people are going crazy over this arowana fish, but consequently, they are having smaller and smaller populations. In fact, the Asian varieties are now being micro chipped to easily track them for the best ones can cost up to $6,000! 

Definitely the price tells much of this fish, as it requires specialized care; they are not the typical pet fishes. They are known to be great hunters of the Amazon, and a responsible pet owner is ought not to drastically change that environment in the arowana's tank. Few may the numbers be of the Asian stock, but newer stocks like the South American (closer to the arapaima) and Australian (usually rusty gold) are being bred now; all just as beautiful but not really endangered.

Many people want the arowana fish for its believed auspicious powers, or just because of its sheer beauty. This also leads many breeders to produce inferior and substandard varieties, all being led by desires for profits and capital. Sad this truth may be, this compels an aspiring hobbyist to be careful with choosing the arowana to buy.

Arowana Food Part 2

Arowana Food: Fish

There's a whole lot of fish available in the market for use as Arowana food. Actually, as long as the fish is not toxic or venomous and as long as it is smaller than the Arowana you will be feeding it to, then it is okay for your pet to eat it. However, there are still dangers that come along with supplying fish into your Arowana's diet. These, and other facts about fish as Arowana food, will be discussed in this article.

As mentioned above, plenty of fish could be fed to Arowanas. The most usual of which are small chidlid, baby catfish, baby koi, meadow fish and feeder goldfish. However, as was also previously stated, there are risks in using fish in your Arowana's regimen. Because they are waterborne, chances of infection are bigger. Also, a number of these said fish are high on cholesterol which causes the drop eye condition in Arowanas. Dietary deficit is also a usual result of using goldfish as Arowana food because of some of its enzymes. Therefore, goldfish is not really a good choice of sustenance for Arowanas.

However, if you still plan on including live fish in your Arowana's diet, then you must always remember to keep these fish away for a minimum of five days to ensure that they are safe to eat before you feed them to your Arowana. Also, so that your Arowana could receive more nutrition, then you can first feed these feeder fish right before you give them to your Arowana. This method can also be done when you're trying to pass medicine on to your pet fish.

In conclusion, it is okay use live fish as Arowana food as long as one keeps in mind the dangers that come along with it. Remember to quarantine them before use and avoid using feeder goldfish. Lastly, keep varying what you feed your Arowana so that it will stay healthy at all times.

Arowana Food: Live Prawns

Among the many available Arowana food, the one which will be discussed in this article is live prawns, or in simpler terms, shrimp. Like the various other types of food that Arowanas can eat, there are also advantages and disadvantages when feeding shrimp to your Arowana. Here, you will find out exactly what these are.

One of the advantages is the fact that, like any other crustacean, shrimps are a very good source of nourishment. However, there are also disadvantages to using shrimp as Arowana food, just like the other living creatures that an Arowana eats. So just as you would do to other live food, detaining the shrimps for at least five days before feeding them to your Arowana is important to ensure that they are clean and disease free. Another drawback in using live prawn is that when they are left in your aquarium, your Arowana would tend to persistently hunt for them downwards, one cause of the drop eye problem in Arowanas.

Lastly, do not feed these crustaceans to an Arowana that is when it is still in its earliest stage of development. This is because the carcasses of the prawns are very hard for the baby Arowana's digestive system to break down, thus giving them stomach troubles. Nevertheless, shrimps are still abundant in vitamin A, the vitamin that heightens and improves the color of Arowanas, so it is still a good source of nutrition.

Now you know the advantages and disadvantages of using live prawns as Arowana food. If you're thinking twice about what to feed your pet Arowana, look back on this article and review what you've read. Shrimps are a good source of vitamin A, but using them all the time may cause the drop eye problem. So keep alternating between prawns and the other food available for Arowanas and you can be sure to be hassle free in growing your pet.

Arowana Food: The Basics

An Arowana must be fed a variety of Arowana food so that the probability rate of insufficiency in nutrition could be lowered. Also, an Arowana must never be overfed. Doing so causes an Arowana to lose its desire to eat, which in turn leads it to starve itself for a long interval. This is also one of the reasons for the dwindling of an Arowana's life expectancy as well as its capacity to breed.

The size of an Arowana must also be taken into consideration when one is trying to know how much to feed it. Arowana food must be given three times a day if the Arowana is at a length under 6 inches. Conversely, an Arowana that measures between 6 and 14 inches must have two meals within 24 hours. Finally, if the Arowana has reached its peak size of more than 14 inches, then it must be fed only once every day.

In its natural habitat, an Arowana's diet includes bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish. When in captivity, however, owners may opt to train their Arowana to accept artificial feeds. Still, to ensure that an Arowana remains healthy when you make it your pet, the above mentioned should stay as a staple in its regimen.

There's added nutrition in organic food, but there are also dangers that come along in choosing to feed the latter to your Arowana. Maladies can enter your aquarium through the things you put inside it, so to avoid the latter from happening, detain live food for a couple of days before letting your Arowana to eat it.

These are just the basic things you need to know when it comes to Arowana food. To ensure you have a complete understanding of what to feed your pet Arowana, read further on the different types of bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish that can nourish it.

Arowana Food

Arowana Food: Crickets

There are many types of food you can feed your Arowana. From insects to amphibians, from worms to different sea creatures, and even artificial feeds, there's a whole lot of food available for this type of fish. In this article, however, you will find everything you need to know about one type of bug that Arowanas like to eat. In this article, crickets as Arowana food will be the main topic of discussion.

A spectrum of nutrients is provided to an Arowana when a cricket is fed to it. Illnesses and disorders are also rare occurrences when feeding an Arowana this type of food. However, one must remember to take off the tough shell protecting the cricket when feeding it to an Arowana when it is still in its infantile stage so that stomach problems may be circumvented. 

Making sure that the cricket is farm bred is also important due to the fact that a wild cricket may have been already sprayed with insecticide, thus making it quite dangerous for the health of your Arowana. The measure of the cricket should also be suitable to the size of the Arowana it will be fed to. As Arowana food, freezing a cricket may also be done to promote an untroubled meal.

Additionally, making a cricket consume vegetables with vitamin A, such as carrots and squash, could also be done before the bug is given to the Arowana so that there could be a transmission of sustenance. Arowanas benefit from vitamin A in such a way that its color receives a boost, especially in cases of red Arowanas.

In conclusion, there are many benefits to using a cricket as Arowana food. However, one must always keep in mind that in feeding an Arowana, variety is always needed so that alimentary deficit may be prevented.

Arowana Food: Cockroaches

Another Arowana food that could be easily found everywhere is cockroaches. This insect has the same value as crickets when it comes to feeding your pet Arowana. However, one should always keep in mind the dangers of letting an Arowana eat a dead cockroach. A reason behind this is the fact that it is unsanitary. Also, it may have died due to pesticide, thus making it unhealthy for your pet to eat. Therefore, always choose farm bred cockroaches if you're going to feed them to your Arowana.

As previously stated, cockroaches are just like crickets when it comes to feeding your pet Arowana. This type of Arowana food has the same nutritional value as crickets do and just like the latter, cockroaches could also be given nutritional supplements containing vitamin A so that when it is their turn to be eaten by the Arowana, the sustenance is passed on. It is good to feed the cockroaches with squash, carrots and other vegetables containing vitamin A before they are fed to the Arowana because the said vitamin causes an Arowana's color to improve. 

On another note, just like crickets, the size of the cockroaches you feed your Arowana should also be proportional to the length of your Arowana. Lastly, because they are just the same as crickets, you could also freeze them before letting your Arowana eat them, and it is also advisable to quarantine them for a couple of days before feeding them to your Arowana to ensure that they are free of any ailments.

So if you plan on using cockroaches as your Arowana food of choice, keep in mind the information found on this article and you'll surely be trouble free in the health department of your pet Arowana. However, you should also always remember that diversity should always be present in your Arowana's diet to keep it healthy at all times. Hang on to these reminders and your Arowana will surely live a long life.