Cycling a New Cichlid Fish Aquarium

With a new aquarium, cycling your tank is the first and most important thing you need to do. This is the process in which your aquarium needs to establish good bacteria. When you first setup your aquarium it will be contaminated with bad bacteria. Before putting cichlid fish into the tank it is important that this bad (harmful) bacteria converts into good bacteria. The first stage of bacteria will break down ammonia into nitrites, and the second stage of bacteria will break down the nitrites into nitrates. Both ammonia and nitrites are harmful to your fish, but nitrates are not, as long as they are at a safe level (below 20ppm).

There are two ways to cycle your tank: with or without fish. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, but most fish enthusiasts prefer to do a fishless cycle. Doing a fishless cycle (which I recommend) has many more advantages: it's faster, easier, and avoids permanently harming fish. Plus, the water will be completely ready for fish once the cycle is finished.

Fishless Cycle

One effective way of doing a fishless cycle is to use media, gravel, sand, or decor from another (disease free) aquarium that already has good bacteria established. If you can't find any of these materials, you can purchase bacteria in a bottle from your local fish store. Also, during this process I suggest raising the temperature in the aquarium to around 85 degrees, this allows for a faster chemical reaction.

Cycling with fish

If you decide to go the other route, then you will need hardy fish that can withstand these harmful water conditions; I suggest using either tetras or guppies. Cycling your tank with fish can take anywhere between 4-6 weeks for the nitrates to become established. You will need to do frequent water changes (20%) 3-4 times a week until the cycle is complete. Of course if you are doing a cichlid fish aquarium you will need to remove the starter fish before adding any cichlids to the tank.

Conclusion

Whichever method you chose, it is important to realize that this can be time-consuming(3-6 weeks), therefore patience is a virtue. It is also important to constantly test your water during this process to ensure that your tank is cycling properly. I recommend using a liquid test kit rather than the basic test strips. Make sure before you add sensitive fish, your nitrates are at, or below 20ppm.

Aquarium Filtration System - Should You Consider Undergravel

There is no doubt that keeping your aquarium clean is crucial to the well-being of your fish and plant. The quality of the water is critical and whether your fish and plant thrives or not depends a lot on the condition of the water. Aquarium filter is essential to keep your tank clean and free from harmful toxin and wastes that accumulates over time.

One popular and widely used aquarium filtration system is the under gravel filter. As the name suggest, the filtration component is located beneath the gravel that is normally used as a form of substrate inside the fish tank. One drawback to this system is that you need to vacuum the gravel in the tank frequently. You need to do this to prevent waste particles and debris trap in the gravel from affecting the performance of the under gravel filter.

Some people perceive it as a hassle to replace this system as it involves major overhaul of the aquarium. You need to remove the gravel and almost everything along with it. The main advantage with under gravel filtration system is that it is quite efficient as well as easy to install and operate. You don't need to deal with stuff hanging on the back of your aquarium like some other filtration systems.

All the major components for this type of filtration system are concealed under the gravel with basically columns that run up the corners, which have one-way valves within them. You can increase the performance and efficiency of most under gravel system by adding a power-head filter.

A 'power-head' is basically the part of the filter that ejects water into the aquarium. Complimenting your under gravel filtration system with a power head is important because it facilitate the pushing of fresh, filtered water from the under gravel system back to your aquarium. Doing so will also produce oxygen bubbles into your fish tank and provide adequate oxygen to your fish.

It is important for you to keep your fish tank in clean condition. Your fish could easily contract disease, become ill and even perish as a result of a dirty and poorly maintain tank. Assembling together a good filtration system won't require much time and effort at all. It is quite easy to set up an under gravel filter. The best part of this filtration system is that it is located right down where the waste is, rendering it remarkably simpler to remove it from your aquarium thus keeping your tank clean all the time.

Discus Fish - Disease and Their Risks

Native from the Amazon and effectively bred across the world in aquariums, discus aren't as fragile or delicate as you might think. Nevertheless, all breeders need to be conscious of all the dangers of discus fish disease, as they're frequently subject to numerous health issues due to improper care and environment. 

Breeders the are most cause of discus fish illnesses, this does not imply we're pointing the finger, this is just a reality. Improper treatment, bad or inadequate tank conditions, co-inhabitant's with inappropriate breeds are generally the factor for a discus fish disease.

Probably the most typical discus disease would be the ones that most freshwater fish are prone to having. For example the ammonia poisoning is a discus fish illness that is due to an improper nitrogen cycle inside your aquarium. Do not add tropical fish till the ammonia is removed from the water, perhaps filters do not perform correctly?. 

To be able to avoid this particular disease, replace the water frequently and steer clear of over-crowding the tank. The signs and symptoms of this disease consist of red and swollen gills and also the fish remaining in the water are at the surface gasping for air.

An additional discus disease that comes from bad water quality will be the Itch or better known as white spot characterised through the little white spots around the physique and fins of the fish. The very best method to battle this is by increasing the temperature in the tank and administrating medicine. 

Prior to adding the medicine for this kind of discus disease, remove the carbon filter as this might soak up all of the helpful medication. If you want other species of fish in the tank, make certain you set up a quarantine aquarium enabling you to stop any disease entering the tank.

In the event the water temperature isn't suitable you will expose your fish to an additional disease like oxygen starvation. A greater water temperature also demands an elevated degree of oxygen within the water. Consequently, you are able to effortlessly fix this by simple aeration of the water, speeding up the flow through the filters. 

You might wish to turn off the tank light from time to time, as this also leads to temperature to rising and thus exposes the fish to less oxygen. All in all, maintain the correct temperature for your discus fish, which is 31 degrees Celsius at the absolute maximum.

Breeding Discus Fish: An Explanation

Breeding discus fish could be really a difficult procedure and really shouldn't be tried by newbies! Regarded as to the number one most stunning tropical fish, they need lots of prerequisites for their environment and special care so be ready to become an active role for your King of the Aquarium!

Discus fish breeding can start in two methods, one is much more costly compared to other. The costly but faster and much more dependable technique entails purchasing a current Discus pair which are already compatible with each other, if you are able to purchase a group of Discus - a minimum of 6 is suggested - and hope a pair will happen naturally as they mature. In addition, it's suggested to purchase various types of Discus fish as this may assist in broadening the genetic gene pool.

As soon as a pair is formed, they basically turn out to be the dominant pair and they'll declare territory. At this stage, eliminate other fish from the aquarium or move the pair to a unique breeding tank - about twenty to thirty gallons ought to be ideal. Make sure that this tank has hiding spots as Discus pairs will battle sometimes (as any pair does!).

So you've the pair. Now arrives the care. Discus breeding demands rigid regulation of numerous elements - chief amongst that are water high and diet plan.

Replace a minimum of 25% of the water in tank twice a week. Make sure that ammonia and nitrite ranges are virtually nonexistent - retaining nitrogenous waste as near to zero as feasible is very essential. Discus are acidic water fish so retaining the pH ranges at 5 to 5.8 is important. Particularly when replacing the water - Discus can go into shock in the event the ranges alter rapidly. In addition, regulating the temperature of the water goes hand in hand with this particular task.

For breeding discus fish, the suggested water temperature is about 82 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

breeding discus will even entail lots of worms. Discus fish adore white and black worms and feeding these foods to them assists in the breeding procedure. In addition, adult brine shrimp, mosquito larvae and daphnia could also be useful.

As soon as the spawning begins, you are able to anticipate as much as 15 eggs each and every week! These will generally start hatching inside 48 hrs. Do not be concerned about planning food for them, because they feed off the adult Discus for the very first couple of days.

Hope this gives you a good overview of Discus fish breeding! Great luck and appreciate your new Discus!

Hot Guppies

Guppies are in the happy position of being able to handle a tropical aquarium or depending on the circumstances, live outside in a pond if the climate is a warm one. To get the best from your guppies it is advantageous to keep them supplied with a heated watery environment in which to live.

While the heaters themselves are not large, I would imagine most eco conscious people today would like to keep electricity costs as low as possible. This is achievable by keeping your tank in a room where temperature fluctuations are limited. You will have seen how specialist fish shops keep the room temperatures as warm as possible with out being uncomfortable; this is so the aquariums maintain their warmth and the shop owners do not run up huge bills. 

Large fish farms have well insulated and maintained external heating services. This also reduces wear and tear on the heaters and in maintaining a steady external temperature, the accidental failure in a heater minimizes any trauma to the fish.

Setting up an aquarium for your guppies will include the aspect of supplying a suitable heater and using it correctly. This ensures that the water is at a controlled temperature of around 75 degrees Fahrenheit or 24 degrees Celsius. This temperature suits many of the fish kept today in tropical aquariums of all shapes and sizes. It helps to maintain aquarium comfort if the top of the tank is covered for most of the time in order to reduce evaporation and as a consequence loss of heat.

Cut glass covers to allow for heater connections and filters to be in the tank with out spoiling the aesthetics. If you choose, cover the external walls with polystyrene to further insulate the tanks. To cover the obvious, attach pictures to the external tank walls so that looking through the aquatic scene you cannot see the styrene but a scene of your choice. These are freely available from fish stores.

Today the submersible and thermostatically controlled heaters bought from the shops simplify the heating of tanks. There are alarms that will provide an indication of a heater defect. Depending on your requirements, it can be an auditory on or a visual one. A software program that will monitor just about everything in your aquarium is available today. The thermostat is heat sensitive and as the water temperature falls, it will switch itself on for as long as it requires to lift the temperature back to the requisite setting. It should not allow huge changes in the water temperatures it controls.

Choosing the right sized heater to heat your tank is necessary to ensure that most of the water is heated and kept at a constant temperature. In real life, out in their natural habitat the guppies do swim in variable temperatures, so all you would be doing is replicating the conditions they are used to living in. Place the submersion heater where the aquarium water will get the most benefit. Generally, this will be on an angle at the back of the tank. Wherever it is placed, it must not be resting on anything, and the water must be able to freely circulate around it.

The heaters usually have explanations for the size of tank that they will service. When you go to buy a heater, take your tank size along as well. The number of liters of water can then be ascertained, and the size of the heater for the amount of water involved. A small stickon, external bimetallic thermometer will indicate at a glance the temperature of the tank.

As well as heaters, the other source of heating comes from lighting. Fluorescent lamps are at the lower end of the scale, while incandescent lights will generate two or three times as much heat. Integrate this knowledge for use with your heaters and learn how to control both systems to get the best results for the least amount of cost.

How To Tell When Your Pregnant Guppy Fish Is Close To Having Babies

If you are planning to keep the fry that your female guppy fish produces, you will want to know approximately when she is due to drop her fry (have baby guppies). Adult guppies eat the baby fish, so it is imperative to isolate your pregnant female guppy when she gets close to the end of her pregnancy, or else the other guppy fish in the tank will probably eat them all.

Like most creatures, as a guppy's pregnancy progresses she will gradually grow a round belly that gets bigger and bigger. When your pregnant guppy is getting close to her delivery date however, you will notice that usually her belly will square out a bit. That is to say, instead of just looking completely round, her belly will start to get a little flat on the bottom while still remaining rounded at the sides.

Another great way to approximate your fish's due date is to note that a guppy pregnancy can last anywhere from 21 to 30 days, but the most common gestation period is 28 days. Thus, if you keep track of when your virgin female guppy was first mated to a male guppy, or you make a note of when the last birth occurred, you can expect her to give birth 21 to 30 (but most likely 28) days later. You can track important information like this in a little journal with a calendar.

Depending on how good your eyesight is, you may also be able to actually see the babies inside the gravid spot of certain colors of guppy. This is the technique I use most often when I have no idea when the female became pregnant and I am trying to guess when she is due. Blonde and lightly colored females are the easiest to see babies in. The darker females, such as gray and black can be quite difficult.

You can do this in two ways: Either watch and wait for the female to swim under the light at the right angle so that the light is behind her or place her in a little separate tank like a photography tank (with the same tank water of course) and hold the little tank up to or place in front of a light source. Either way, you will need to wait until she is sitting still or you will not be able to see anything. Once you get a good view, you will probably see little black or dark dots in her gravid spot if the is in the later part of her pregnancy. 

These little dots are actually the baby guppy fish's eyes! The tiny eyes will be more easily visible and well- formed when they are close to being born. I have even seen the baby fish eyes move and look around through their mother's gravid spot when she is very close to delivery! There are not many creatures with such a "window to the womb" naturally occurring, it is just one more reason that keeping guppies can be amazingly interesting.

Over time as you get more experience, you will get a sense for when pregnant female guppies are close to having fry. You will learn the gestation time for your individual strains and how individual guppy fish will look when they are close to giving birth. Use the tips I mentioned and observe your guppies closely and you will have a great head start at knowing how to tell when your pregnant guppy is going to have baby guppies.

Types of Systems for a CO2 Aquarium

CO2 Aquariums, also known as natural aquariums or planted aquariums, are aquariums containing actual plants growing inside the aquarium. A lot individuals are fond of this look better as it is authentic in place of using fake plants.

The CO2 comes into the picture when you have begun to decide which plants you'd like to grow. The aquarium can get a small amount of CO2 exhaled from your fishes' gills yet plants are dependent on the stronger levels that are happened upon in their original habitat. As a result injection is nearly indispensable for plant progression. Quite a few of the lower light plants need little or no supplementary carbon dioxide yet some of the plants that need more light will need supplementary CO2 to allow them multiply and succeed.

CO2 is added to the aquariums by way of a bunch of strategies and styles. You could just attain tablets that add carbon dioxide though they typically aren't suggested due to the fact that the carbon dioxide addition ought to be continuing. Employing a carbon dioxide arrangement an aquarium might be consistently injected with a steady stock of CO2.

The 1st of the 3 techniques we will recommend is a Bio-System. This method is often mentioned to initial time CO2ers as it is a breeze and fun to do. A bio-system is assembled by working with a container and combining sugar, yeast and water. All of the essentials work together with water to construct carbon dioxide. The lion's share of participants add their own leveraging a juice bottle though you can easily acquire systems for approximately $25.

Another is a type of system is a Mechanical System. A mechanical system is similar to the bio system except that it contains a small amount of mechanical elements - which explains the title. Instead of creating the CO2 on its own it has bottled carbon dioxide gas and automatic valves to constrain the release.

And the final is a CO2 Electrolysis System. An electrolysis system contains electricity to steadily convert a carbon block into carbon dioxide. This is by far the least common of the types of systems.

Beware that that depending on which plants you put to use you will possibly not even have to get a system. It is often recommended that you chance it without to see how appropriately your plants succeed previous to adding time and money to a CO2 system.

Health Benefits of a Freshwater Aquarium

Health is Wealth. Do you have a stressful life, high blood pressure, insomnia? Is your child suffering from hyperactivity disorder. Are you tired of continuous consultations, clinic visits and allopathy treatment. Then it is time you try socio-therapy. For years dogs, cats, birds and many other types of social animals are used for this type of therapy and have shown positive results. How about fish or fresh water aquariums? Does an aquarium pet therapy have any beneficial health merits?

Let's study the Health Benefits of Freshwater Aquarium

Virtually any aquarium, from large to small, will have a benefit. Studies going back as far as the late 80's have shown that gazing at aquarium fish reduces stress and subsequently lowers blood pressure. Pennsylvania university researchers reported that watching fish swimming in a home aquarium lessens stress and lowers high blood pressure.

Researchers concluded that people watching fresh water aquariums with bubbles, pebbles and plants benefit a lot as compared to no fish aquarium

Ecologist Alan Bech, director of the university's Center for the Interaction of Animals and Society research revealed that "Blood pressure drops with fishless fish tanks, but it doesn't drop as much and it creeps back up faster. With fish in the tanks, you truly get relaxation."

Fresh water aquarium: Can it make a difference

Researchers have compared the effects of fishless vs. fish filled aquariums, and no aquarium vs. having a freshwater aquarium. In all cases, having an aquarium reduces blood pressure though, studies show greater reduction in blood pressure when there were fish in the tank, vs pleasingly decorated fishless tanks. Even watching a video tape, dvd, cd, pictures, paintings of fish has been proven to have therapeutic effects and multiple health benefits.

Proven Health Benefits

Significant blood pressure reduction was observed in Seniors who were provided with freshwater aquarium filled with fish. Watching fish calms children suffering from hyperactivity disorder to a great extent. Studies also proved that Dental patients too benefit from the aquarium. They required less pain medication after having watched fish in the office.

Research shows Alzheimer patients experiencing a variety of health benefits from watching freshwater aquariums. At Purdue University, researchers found that displaying tanks of brightly colored fish may curtail disruptive behaviors and improve eating habits of people with Alzheimer's disease. Their diet increased and required fewer supplements after an aquarium was placed in the dining room. They also exhibited less physically aggressive behaviors.

Nursing Professor Nancy Edwards Purdue News August 1999 reports 60 individuals residing in specialized units in three Indiana nursing homes, who were exposed to the fish tanks appeared to be more relaxed and alert. They ate up to 21 percent more food than they had before the introduction of the fish tanks which is an average increase of 17.2 percent."

So let's take advantage of the stress-relieving benefits of aquarium fish whenever, and wherever we can!It's therefore a little wonder these days that physician offices, dental clinics and waiting rooms for counselors keep an aquarium in the waiting room.

nformation Guideline on Live Aquatic Plants to Be Used for Your First Freshwater Aquarium

Know thy freshwater aquarium plants...

Plants are one of the most essential need for a freshwater aquarium due to their ability to release life-giving oxygen as well as serve as food for herbivorous species of fish. It is therefore, vital to select appropriate species of aquarium plants for your freshwater aquarium.

Plants serve the purpose of providing a natural habitat and develop an organic aquarium. Habitat preferences of fishes vary as per their species. This makes it very important for the aquarist to know about the native habitat of their fish. The selection of freshwater aquarium plants should suit the species of fish that it houses.

Knowing the factors to be considered while selecting aquarium plants

Plants need sunlight to generate oxygen. Freshwater aquarium plants are submerged in fish tank within four walls and may not get enough sunlight. It is therefore essential to have appropriate lighting. Lighting as a substitute of sunlight helps in the photosynthesis process to supply nutrition to the plant and release oxygen and should therefore be in optimal proportion. Nevertheless, excessive or harmful lighting can accelerate the growth of algae in your tank causing more maintenance issues. A good equation to consider will be approximately 2 watts per gallon of water. Aquatic lighting is therefore a science in itself.

Layout or arrangement of plants in your freshwater aquarium too, is an important factor to be considered. Depending upon their individual species and rate of growth you could choose where you want to place them in your tank. A good strategy is to keep plants with slower growth rate at the front of the tank to allow maximum visibility without pruning. Thereafter, place the medium growth rate plants in the centre or middle succeeded by the rapidily growing plants at the back. This has to be done keeping in mind the different levels of water your aquarium fish would like to enjoy in their natural habitat.

Another important factor to be considered while selecting aquarium plants for your fish tank is the type of substrate they need for their own survival. Depending upon the species plants may need smaller or larger and rougher substrate for their roots to latch to. Few of them can even flourish in sand.

Cleanliness measures for a healthy aquarium

If you choose live plants you will want to consider the type of plant vs. the type of fish. Herbivores are expected to naturally graze on certain plants and could have uprooted a few during lunch which could be found as floating debris thereby polluting the tank water. An education from local pet store specialist could help you in selecting appropriate plant species to go in conjuntion with the type of fish for your aquarium.

So how do I start?

Simple...as a beginner start with plants that are easy to maintain.

Further to same before plantation, a thorough rinse could avoid any foreign organisms, insects and or animals from entering and contaminating aquarium environment. If avoided, this could result into a disease outbreak resulting into the death of livestock which is more valuable compared to the tank, filtration system and plants.

As you gain confidence and become more educated in knowing more species add or replace the plants in your tank with better ones. Keep on observing the changes in the behaviour of the inhabitants. At the end of the day all these efforts are to keep both fish and ourselves happy and relaxed.

There Is More Than One Way To Build An Aquarium - Even Without Fish

Aquariums are pretty amazing. They are essentially taken for granted by many (although still fascinated) but if you stop to think about it, a fish tank is an entire ecosystem built into one box, complete with life giving water, food, bacteria, plant life, and more. To think that anyone anywhere has the power to build and support one of these amazing eco-system is mind blowing. In a way we are playing God to the fish, coral, and the entire habitat. The fish are usually merely ONE of the living things being supported by your aquarium though.

The variety of fish is vast and there is an incredibly complex variety of fish species, but it's actually possible to create a tank that has no fish in it and still enjoy it immensely! Many people look at fish tanks in stores and only really pay close attention to living things that moving around in the tank, the fish. The reality is that some tanks are completely alive. With the exception of the rocks (wait, some rocks may not be rocks but living creatures own their own) everything in an aquarium can be alive.

You could effectively create a tank that is 80% life and only 20% inanimate objects: the tank itself, rocks on the bottom (pebbles), any decorative items such as a treasure chest, fake plants, and other items. At first glance and without the foresight/knowledge, it may be hard to figure out what life is in the aquarium. There are actually quite a few forms of life you can put in your tank.

* coral for the rocks and underwater mountains 

* water plants that help clean the water 

* marine algae that forms naturally 

* and the ever present "sucker fish" to eat and clean the algae

As you can see, it's pretty easy to have an aquarium that is full of life but doesn't contain what we normally think of as fish. You can, of course always add fish to this equation to add even more (or more obvious) life to the mix.

Some forms of plants are very active and move around much like a fish. The tentacles of some plants are fascinating to watch and although at first you may thing the plant is swaying back and forth due to the currents in the tank but the reality is that the plant itself is moving on it's own and it is creating the currents in an otherwise standing water tank. The benefits of this are that the water is essentially "stirred" up and makes sure that debris is filtered properly.

Essentials Before You "Fish" Around For An Aquarium

People love the companionship of pets. Pets tend to have a symbiotic relationship with people and although they tend to be self-sufficient (cats, hamsters, etc...) so long as you provide an environment they can thrive in and provide the essentials of life they can't get on their own. 

Some pets take more work than others to take care of but one of the nice things about fish and aquariums are that other than having to clean the tank once a month, feeding them daily, and allowing a filtering system to clean the water automatically, they are essentially worry free.

One thing that makes fish a lot of fun is that you can build and maintain, even change their environment whenever you want to change its appeal (to both you and the fish). Human nature states that we're creative beings with the ability to manifest what we want through cause and effect. A fish, however, simply lives in the environment, a non sentient being that requires us to take care of it. 

This symbiotic relationship mean that we need each other and can provide one another some relaxation and intrigue. A fish can be an intriguing pet, but as a care taker we not only are required to make sure the fish can survive in his new aquarium, but we can also build it for our own pleasure, eye candy and meditative calm.

Although the aquarium is designed to assure the fish survives and is happy, it's built as much for our enjoyment as it is for the fish. This means that building an aquarium can be a great therapeutic tool, a way to teach children responsibility, and to bring a new dimension to a room, bringing life and beauty together. 

There's just something cool about a fish tank that makes people want to look and observe the simple life of a fish. There are many types of fish to choose from, some are friendly towards other fish, some with only specific non predatory fish, and others must be alone.

When choosing what type of fish you want, you need to consider how much your willing to put into taking care of the fish. There are many species of fish that require nothing more than a cleaning system (filter for the water) and a thorough cleaning monthly (rocks, internal components of the scenery in the tank), maybe even bi-weekly depending on the fish and the amount of fish in the tank. 

There are also fish that require a specific environment such as water with salt in it (saltwater fish), a specific balance of chemicals in the water, a consistent temperature (cold or warm), and others that require special care that goes far beyond just set it and forget it until the cleaning.

It's best to do your homework on the fish you want BEFORE you start figuring out what kind of tank you want. If you get the wrong tank, it is more difficult to get the water balanced correctly and you could kill the fishes. 

Fish are fascinating, and you may want to start out with the easy type to take care of and a small tank. You can evolve into the different types of fish, but be sure to get different tanks for different fish that require specific environmental controls as stated above. There is much to learn about fish. They are not just benign creatures, they are full of life and experience emotions just like we do. Learning about fish is a wonderful experience, and the fish depends on you for it's happiness.

Give Your Children A Fun And Exciting Way To Learn About Sea Life With An Aquarium

Aquariums are fascinating to look at- especially if you go to a pet store and see all the wonderful configurations, types of fish, and all the many variables involved. Building a fish tank ecosystem (habitat) can be a simple thing or very complex. Depending on what you want in your aquarium, your tank could take on a unique and intriguing life of it's own. Much like cats are practically maintenance free except for needing to feed them and clean out their litter box, fish are much the same way.

Although cleaning out a large tank or a tank with a complex array of "innards" is no easy or even fun task to take on twice or more a month, this can actually be a lot of fun if you involve your children. If you show your kids how to build a tank, picking all the elements, going online and learning about the various fish you saw in the pet store, and picking what they want they will have the opportunity to learn a lot.

Kids are naturally curious and if you teach them early how to research about the fish and what is involved in building an aquarium, you teach them a valuable skill set they can use throughout the rest of their lives. It used to be that the only way to learn was to go to the pet store and depend on the knowledge of the sales staff or check out books from the library about fish. Today, with the advent of the internet and the plethora of informative sites on just about every type of fish and plant life, building and researching an aquarium is now easier than before.

Building your tank is a holistic experience. It's one that teaches responsibility, can be a lot of fun trying out different fish over the years, and it prepares kids for life's many responsible moments by showing them the details, execution, and on going lessons that owning a fish can entail.

To build a tank, you should first show your kids how to find information on fish. Show them that there are different fish that can't survive together or that can't survive in each others ecosystem. An example is salt water fish can't live and thrive in fresh water, while fresh water fish can't live and thrive (and will surely die) in salt water. Then you can show them how some fish are hunters and will attack other species of fish.

Once you learn all you can about the fish, reverse engineer and build the best habitat for the fish types you want. That way you'll have the greatest chance of success and you can really bring life to the home!

The Benefits of the Vinegar Nematode

The vinegar nematode has a lot of advantages to other types of nematodes. There are four common kinds of nematodes in similar size ranges that are fed to fish and fry as live fish foods. These include microworms, banana worms, Walter's worms, and vinegar eels. Microworms, banana worms, and Walter's worms are all grown in a medium of grain often oatmeal, cornmeal, baby cereal, or mashed potatoes. However, vinegar eels have four main advantages over these other nematodes.

• First of all, they are grown in vinegar. While many people dislike the smell of apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar they never smell different then that. On the other hand, the other types of nematodes can smell bad. In fact, the older they get, the worse they smell. Over time, they get to the point where they smell horrible. If the cultures go bad then the smell is even worse and can make your stomach feel upset.
• Next it should be noted that vinegar eels are easy. Microworms and other nematodes often require you to add food about once a week. Then after two or three weeks they need to be started over. This can be time-consuming, especially if you have large cultures or a number of them. On the other hand, the vinegar eel culture only needs a bit of food added to it once a month and it will last for a minimum of three months, but often up to six.
• The next thing that should be noted is that vinegar eels are a lot easier for fry and fish to eat. The other nematodes drown and they live on the surface of sour paste. The microworm is called the sour paste nematode. However, when added to the water they slowly sink to the bottom. They can then crawl into the substrate or sand if they are not eaten by snails or bottom feeders. Finally, they can die and add waste to your water quality. On the other hand, vinegar eels swim. They stick at the top of the surface and stay there. This makes it easier for them to be eaten by the fry and can even be seen by larger fish who might miss the sinking microworms.
• The vinegar eels can live for days in the water. In fact, they may be able to live for weeks, but it's hard to know because the fish will grab them up. Because they can live in the water and they aren't going to die before the fish eat them, they also won't add waste to your water.

These benefits make them more appealing to many than the microworms, banana worms, or Walter's worms. These easy to keep cultures can be set up, set aside, and brought out when you need them. A starter culture of the vinegar nematode is inexpensive, and if you start a regular new culture you will be able to keep them forever.

Discus Fish Care Essentials

With regards to discus fish care, it can be a really complex job to ensure that your fish are pleased with their environment, making sure they have every thing they require, discus aren't usually suggested for newbie aquarists but in the event you want to give it a go, then you will find some essential elements which you need to think about with regards to discus fish care, and probably the most essential element for ensuring the well being of your discus fish is the water.

Discus fish are from the Amazon River and so they're used to warmer and much more acidic waters. The perfect temperature for the water in a discus tank is about 26-31 C for grownup fish and for child discus and baby discus, the perfect temperature is at 31 C. it's essential for your water to become soft and acidic having a pH lever of in between 5.5 and 6.5, this really is a perfect pH degree for wild discus to keep them happy.

Numerous aquarists believe the water inside a discus tank needs to be replaced frequently (this will be the exact same with any fish tank) but in the event you have a nicely planted tank that consists of sufficient filtration, lights and bottom dwelling fish to clear up the mess that discus deposit following consuming food, then this will make the tank a great deal cleaner and also the keep the water clearer for extended periods. With regards to the vegetation along with other fish which you consider to keep together with your discus fish, you need to select fish and vegetation to compliment the discus to ensure that they're in a position to thrive.

With regards to captive discus which have already been bred, then it's feasible for them to adapt to tougher water which tends to make discus fish care that bit simpler. Captive discus can survive in water having a pH stability of as much as 6.8 (this isn't appropriate if you're trying to breed discus, nevertheless, soft and acidic water is greatest for breeding) once the pH stability is reduced then it safeguards the discus from harmful toxins which permits the discus to reside in conditions which are nearly the exactly the same as where they had came from.

It's essential to be aware that a pH degree which drops below 5 can inhibit the development of helpful bacteria which may exist within the filter. So with regards to discus care you need to keep in mind that the temperature and also the pH stability of the water is extremely essential any drop in the pH can trigger the discus to get sick and may even cause them to die, that is why that it isn't appropriate for inexperienced fish keepers to try to breed discus fish, nevertheless all of us should learn exactly how, if you're truly thinking about keeping your personal discus aquarium, make sure to study up on all the info that's around for you on discus care.

Aquarium Design - Rocks

One of the key ingredients of any aquarium design is rock. Properly chosen, prepared and positioned rocks can transform an otherwise clinical setup environment into an attractive replica of actual natural habitat of the fish and plant.

It is important to note that rocks are not all identical in terms of composition nor are they all suitable for your aquarium. It is important for you to do some tests to check if the rocks are safe before you dump them into your fish tank. To a certain extent, the type of rocks that you can safely use depends on the type of fish and plant species.

The recommended type of rocks for freshwater aquarium are collectively known as inert rocks. This group of rocks includes basalt, obsidian, coal, quartz, sandstone and shale. As the name suggest, this class of rock does not affect water chemistry. It is a safe choice for freshwater aquarium.

Calcareous rocks alter the pH level and raise hardness of the water. This is in direct contrast to inert rock that is known to be aquarium safe. Some calcareous rock varieties include chalk, limestone and marble. These types of rocks are good for hard water or brackish aquariums particularly if the intention is to raise the pH level or hardness of the water without having to resort to chemical treatment.

How To Test The Rock

There is a simple way to determine if a rock is safe for your aquarium. Here is what you ought to do. Firstly, fill a bucket with water from a source that your normally use for instance tap water or preferably old aquarium water.

Note down the pH, hardness, nitrates and the phosphates level of the water. Put the rock into the bucket and let it soak for a week or so and then test the water again. Compare the readings before and after the soaking. If the subsequent readings do not deviate much from the original readings, the rock is not likely to adversely affect your aquarium.

Another simple test is what is called the' vinegar test'. Put a few drops of white vinegar on the rock. The rock is deemed calcareous if the solution foams. You should not use this rock unless your intention is to alter the water chemistry.

How To Prepare The Rock

Once you have confirmed that the rock is aquarium safe, the first thing that you need to do is to disinfect it. You need to get rid of pathogens that might reside within the rock crevices. Start by brushing and rinsing debris off the rock surface. Next, cook it in hot water and allow it to dry in the sun before placing it in the aquarium.

Choosing suitable rocks for your aquarium design and decoration is not a difficult task. All that is required of you is some knowledge on how to test the rock to ensure it does not alter the water chemistry that may affect your fish and plant.

Maintaining Cichlid's Water

If you're still a beginner in the hobby of raising and keeping cichlids, the seemingly complicated specifications of water chemistry may have you worried. However, believe it or not, obtaining and maintaining the correct water chemistry for your cichlid fish may be less complicated than you think. There are three important properties that need to be measured and adjusted in order to give your cichlids the most ideal water chemistry possible. Those three are pH, GH, and KH.

pH 

Having the correct pH balance in your cichlid's water is probably the most important part of good water chemistry. Your water's pH balance describes whether it is more acidic, more alkaline, or just plain neutral. If your water tests for a pH balance of seven, this means it is perfectly neutral - an ideal balance for most fish. Any number greater than seven means it has an alkaline balance, and any number less than seven means it is acidic.

Even the slightest changes in the pH balance of your water can upset your delicate cichlids so try to keep a stable level. If you need to make adjustments, be sure that you don't raise or lower the level by more than a third of a point per day. Keep in mind that each number on the pH scale signifies a difference of ten times more or less acidity or alkalinity than the numbers adjacent to it. A reading of six - just one point less than a neutral seven - means your water is ten times more acidic.

General Hardness (GH) 

The hardness of your water is measured by the amount of calcium and magnesium it contains. Many African cichlids are happiest in an aquarium with a GH level that hovers somewhere between 160 and 320 parts per million. Because calcium and magnesium do not keep for very long in water, your aquarium's GH level will steadily drop if not manually adjusted. There are various scales used to measure water hardness so make sure to determine which of them your testing kit is using before judging the results.

Carbonate Hardness (KH) 

The carbonate hardness level of your water describes the level of carbonates and bicarbonates it contains. It measures your water's ability to keep a stable pH level, which, as we know, is crucial to the survival of your cichlids. With a sufficiently high KH level, your water will maintain its pH balance even through various changes. The right amount of carbonates and bicarbonates acts like a vacuum cleaner, absorbing any harmful additives before they affect the acidity of your precious water. A good KH range is usually somewhere between 180 to 240 parts per million.

Testing 

It's important to test your aquarium's water for these three properties to ensure that your fish are as healthy as they can be. Having the correct levels in all three of these categories will contribute to happier, prettier cichlids that will live longer, more natural lives.

One of the most accurate water testing kits is the API liquid test kit, which comes with a number of different tests for various minerals. As a rule, liquid drop test kits are generally of better quality than the cheaper but less accurate test strips.

How to Adjust and Maintain pH and KH 

Because cichlids are so vulnerable to even the slightest changes in their water chemistry, if you need to adjust any of these levels, it's important to do so slowly. Adding one teaspoon of baking soda for every five gallons of water in your tank can help to slowly begin raising its pH and KH balance if needed, but make sure that you add it slowly(too fast can harm the fish). This should be dissolved ahead of time in a glass of aquarium water.

Each time you do a water change, you will need to add 1 teaspoon of baking soda for every 5 gallons that you take out. For example, if you take out 30 gallons of water, you will need to put 6 teaspoons of baking soda in. This should also be dissolved before adding it to the aquarium.

Lowering your pH balance is much trickier as you first need to obliterate the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water, after which you can then lower the pH. Driftwood and sodium biphosphate both contain acids that will get the job done nicely, but be sure to keep a close eye on your water. After you are finished the process, restore your water's KH balance with crushed coral, limestone, or oyster shell.

Caring for Your Discus Fish

Discus are a popular tropical fish species to keep in the home. If looked after they can live for quite a few years but on average it is four to five. There are some key tips for keeping Discus Fish in good condition. Some of these are typical to all tropical fish and some are specific to Discus.

As they are quite a large fish, they need a lot of space and a large tropical fish tank should be used. The size will vary depending on how many fish you intend to keep but a tank of at least 40 gallons should be used.

The temperature needs to be kept at a fairly constant and Discus like it quite hot (about 82-86 deg Fahrenheit). To maintain this temperature, the tank should be kept away from sources of cold and heat such as draughts from windows and external doors, direct sunlight and fires or radiators. A reliable aquarium heater should be used, and if you have a large tank it is worth having more than one to distribute the heat evenly and as a back up.

The first time you fill the fish tank it should be left for two to three weeks for the filters to settle in and the water should be treated with a chemical agent. Any fish tank equipment, ornaments or gravels need to be thoroughly washed a few times, to remove dirt and bacteria, before placing them in the water.

Discus Fish will eat a variety of foods including flakes and frozen shrimp.

The tropical fish tank should be cleaned regularly and as Discus are a large fish, they produce a lot of waste so the water should be changed, or at least partially changed on a weekly basis to ensure a healthy environment. It is also a good idea to use a large and efficient filter to as Discus need very clean water.

Discus are a communal, and generally non-aggressive species and several can be kept together. Ideally if you intend to add any new fish to the aquarium, they should be kept in a separate quarantine tank for a few days and observed for any signs of disease or other issues before introducing them into the main fish tank with other fish. Other tropical fish can be kept in the same tank but it is best to avoid other large fish or fast swimmers. Bottom feeding catfish make an ideal tank companion.

Discus's live on average four to five years but may last longer if you look after them well.

Arowana Care: Different Shades of Gold

One of the favorite fishes of hobbyists is the golden arowana fish, since not only does it intensify its association with power and wealth due to its distinct coloration, they also tend to come in different variants, and enthusiasts had even put them into a scale. One of the levels of grading golden arowanas is the Red Tail Golden (RTG) arowanas. This variant is known to have a distinct coppery development of scale coloration. However, the second and third rows of the scales give off a slightly purplish sheen. The fins are also coppery red, almost brown-red, while the row of scales directly near them ranges from dark grey to black.

Another level, and the one that holds the most prestige, is the Full Scale Gold (FSG) arowana fish. Based on its name, it is obvious that this variety boasts an almost solid pattern of gold scales. Indeed, it does, with scales which may or may not give off a purplish sheen. It is also known for a sharp black line around its eyes. Unlike the RTG arowanas, FSG arowanas have yellow-brown to solid gold pectoral and ventral fins. These features are also the ones being sought first when buying a golden arowana.

An enthusiast with an eye for an arowana fish might notice the difference, but a beginner couldn't tell an FSG from a High Back RTG. If the FSG is known for its black eye line, the High Back RTG has a blue-green or brown-red eye line; varying hues might be easily mistakened as black. Also, two-thirds down the pectoral and ventral fins, the supposedly yellow-brown or golden coloration turns coppery, sometimes dark red. Other varieties which are out in the market are relatively new, like the Malaysian gold and Australian gold, all of which are not yet known to many hobbyists.

A fully-grown adult arowana fish has a formidable countenance often cloaked in bright colors, but it does not mean it began like that as well. In fact, regardless of the variety and color, anl arowana starts off as fragile, vulnerable silver fry. In fact, they are so helpless that for the first five to six weeks, they have with them an egg sac, which provides them with food and nutrition. Their minute form also exposes them to danger, and that is why the young arowanas can be usually found in groups of ten. When they are old enough to lose their sacs, which is when the territoriality and aggressiveness kicks in while they look for themselves bugs and small aquatic animals to feed upon.

If anarowana fish is well taken care of, add to that well-kept tank conditions, it grows very rapidly, hence its reputation as being a gigantic fish. In fact, it is very noticeable that it grows and does not seem to stop. After about a year, many arowana owners see their pets reaching sizes of almost one foot! Indeed, this adaptation is really important as in their natural habitats, predators are usually of the lengths between two to three meters; something evolution shaped to make the arowana survive. Indeed, if one keeps on taking good care of the arowana, it will continue growing, given that there is enough room, food, and patience.

The arowana fish exhibits slight sexual dimorphism, as it is seen that males have bigger and deeper mouths. In mating, the two fishes will swim in pair and find a spot to make a nest, usually from mud. Once the female lays the eggs, the male inseminates them and eventually puts them in his mouth to incubate them; something unique for the arowanas.

Arowana Care: Arowanas Can Be With the Others!

The arowana fish is a formidable hunter in its natural habitats. Putting it in a tank with other fishes had proven to be a tricky endeavour; arowanas are meat eaters and highly territorial. However, knowing how the arowana behaves in the wild, one might be equipped with the knowledge on how to keep arowanas in harmony with other fishes. One thing to consider, as what had already been said, is its territoriality. 

An arowana does not want any other arowana in sight, for they will most likely compete and fight with each other -- something a fish keeper does not want to happen. However, it was shown that in groups in at least four or five fishes, the aggressive behavior are subdued.

Another thing with the arowana fish is that they it loves meat; they are carnivores. Driven by its natural instinct, therefore, one already knows that it is most likely to devour smaller and more vulnerable fishes in the tank. Knowing that, one must, as much as possible, keep the arowana away from smaller fishes. This does not mean, however, that the arowana is meant to live alone. One thing we can use to the tank's advantage is that the arowana is a surface feeder; it spends most of its time in the surface.

Given specifications about different varieties and species of domestic fishes, one is ought to find middle and bottom dwellers to go with an arowana. For instance, fishes like the blue ram, dwarf cory, or snow tetra will not only bring color to a tank, but also prove to be good companions since they are middle dwellers. In addition, bottom feeders like the janitor fish is also a good companion not only to the arowana fish, but also to the fish keeper as well; it helps with the maintenance.

Who thought that a big strange fish will attract thousands of admirers and hobbyists? Just look at the arowana fish and one will know why. It resembles the crust dragon, which is a symbol of power and good fortune. People associated this with the art of feng shui and how could one harness its luck attracting energy. This is why in Hong Kong; the belief is strong that any kind or variety of the arowana brings in luck and good energy in a household. That is why the trade for the arowanas is booming.

Most arowanas from the Asian stock have bright flaming colors which are even more identifiable with the crust dragon. This is why people are going crazy over this arowana fish, but consequently, they are having smaller and smaller populations. In fact, the Asian varieties are now being micro chipped to easily track them for the best ones can cost up to $6,000! 

Definitely the price tells much of this fish, as it requires specialized care; they are not the typical pet fishes. They are known to be great hunters of the Amazon, and a responsible pet owner is ought not to drastically change that environment in the arowana's tank. Few may the numbers be of the Asian stock, but newer stocks like the South American (closer to the arapaima) and Australian (usually rusty gold) are being bred now; all just as beautiful but not really endangered.

Many people want the arowana fish for its believed auspicious powers, or just because of its sheer beauty. This also leads many breeders to produce inferior and substandard varieties, all being led by desires for profits and capital. Sad this truth may be, this compels an aspiring hobbyist to be careful with choosing the arowana to buy.

Arowana Food Part 2

Arowana Food: Fish

There's a whole lot of fish available in the market for use as Arowana food. Actually, as long as the fish is not toxic or venomous and as long as it is smaller than the Arowana you will be feeding it to, then it is okay for your pet to eat it. However, there are still dangers that come along with supplying fish into your Arowana's diet. These, and other facts about fish as Arowana food, will be discussed in this article.

As mentioned above, plenty of fish could be fed to Arowanas. The most usual of which are small chidlid, baby catfish, baby koi, meadow fish and feeder goldfish. However, as was also previously stated, there are risks in using fish in your Arowana's regimen. Because they are waterborne, chances of infection are bigger. Also, a number of these said fish are high on cholesterol which causes the drop eye condition in Arowanas. Dietary deficit is also a usual result of using goldfish as Arowana food because of some of its enzymes. Therefore, goldfish is not really a good choice of sustenance for Arowanas.

However, if you still plan on including live fish in your Arowana's diet, then you must always remember to keep these fish away for a minimum of five days to ensure that they are safe to eat before you feed them to your Arowana. Also, so that your Arowana could receive more nutrition, then you can first feed these feeder fish right before you give them to your Arowana. This method can also be done when you're trying to pass medicine on to your pet fish.

In conclusion, it is okay use live fish as Arowana food as long as one keeps in mind the dangers that come along with it. Remember to quarantine them before use and avoid using feeder goldfish. Lastly, keep varying what you feed your Arowana so that it will stay healthy at all times.

Arowana Food: Live Prawns

Among the many available Arowana food, the one which will be discussed in this article is live prawns, or in simpler terms, shrimp. Like the various other types of food that Arowanas can eat, there are also advantages and disadvantages when feeding shrimp to your Arowana. Here, you will find out exactly what these are.

One of the advantages is the fact that, like any other crustacean, shrimps are a very good source of nourishment. However, there are also disadvantages to using shrimp as Arowana food, just like the other living creatures that an Arowana eats. So just as you would do to other live food, detaining the shrimps for at least five days before feeding them to your Arowana is important to ensure that they are clean and disease free. Another drawback in using live prawn is that when they are left in your aquarium, your Arowana would tend to persistently hunt for them downwards, one cause of the drop eye problem in Arowanas.

Lastly, do not feed these crustaceans to an Arowana that is when it is still in its earliest stage of development. This is because the carcasses of the prawns are very hard for the baby Arowana's digestive system to break down, thus giving them stomach troubles. Nevertheless, shrimps are still abundant in vitamin A, the vitamin that heightens and improves the color of Arowanas, so it is still a good source of nutrition.

Now you know the advantages and disadvantages of using live prawns as Arowana food. If you're thinking twice about what to feed your pet Arowana, look back on this article and review what you've read. Shrimps are a good source of vitamin A, but using them all the time may cause the drop eye problem. So keep alternating between prawns and the other food available for Arowanas and you can be sure to be hassle free in growing your pet.

Arowana Food: The Basics

An Arowana must be fed a variety of Arowana food so that the probability rate of insufficiency in nutrition could be lowered. Also, an Arowana must never be overfed. Doing so causes an Arowana to lose its desire to eat, which in turn leads it to starve itself for a long interval. This is also one of the reasons for the dwindling of an Arowana's life expectancy as well as its capacity to breed.

The size of an Arowana must also be taken into consideration when one is trying to know how much to feed it. Arowana food must be given three times a day if the Arowana is at a length under 6 inches. Conversely, an Arowana that measures between 6 and 14 inches must have two meals within 24 hours. Finally, if the Arowana has reached its peak size of more than 14 inches, then it must be fed only once every day.

In its natural habitat, an Arowana's diet includes bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish. When in captivity, however, owners may opt to train their Arowana to accept artificial feeds. Still, to ensure that an Arowana remains healthy when you make it your pet, the above mentioned should stay as a staple in its regimen.

There's added nutrition in organic food, but there are also dangers that come along in choosing to feed the latter to your Arowana. Maladies can enter your aquarium through the things you put inside it, so to avoid the latter from happening, detain live food for a couple of days before letting your Arowana to eat it.

These are just the basic things you need to know when it comes to Arowana food. To ensure you have a complete understanding of what to feed your pet Arowana, read further on the different types of bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish that can nourish it.