Arowana Care: Arowana 101

Popularly known as a household pet, the arowana fish is a freshwater bony fish which belongs to the Family Osteoglossidae (coming from the Greek words osteos meaning "bone" and glossa meaning "tongue"; literally bony-tongued). This name is gotten from the fact that their tongues have a "tooth" which they use to grind against the tooth in the roof of their mouths. Another interesting about the mouths of the arowana is that they use them to hatch their eggs, an adaptation known as buccal incubation. In fact, on average, an arowana can hold hundreds of eggs in its mouth, where the young ones would eventually feed.

These fishes have a bony head and an elongated, slender body. Their scales, shaped by the turbidity of their natural habitats, are large and heavy with mosaic patterns and canals; in some species, the scales even acquire a glossy and reflective surface. Aside from these scales, their fin patterns also give the arowana fish a distinct look. Their dorsal and anal fins have soft rays and are long based, while the pectoral and ventral fins are small. Also, they are known as obligatory air breathers, fishes which need to fill their swimbladders with air not only to float, but also to obtain oxygen. These swimbladders resemble the lungs in the sense that they are lined with arteries and veins.

The arowana fish is naturally carnivorous, and are shaped by evolution to be excellent surface feeders: they get their food by jumping. Specialized muscles and aerodynamic body shape enable them to become powerful jumpers, some noting that they can jump as high as 6 feet. These heights suit their diet of flying insects, small arboreal mammals, and low flying bats. Two species of the arowanas are found in the Neotropical region, one in the Southeast Asian region, and two in New Guinea.

Having an arowana fish as a pet can be tricky, but the rewards make the struggle all worth it. That's why there are certain points and tricks to remember on how to maximize the joy from keeping an arowana. First, arowanas are really huge fishes with sizes averaging to 37 inches, and they like to be alone. Many hobbyists, however, had found ways to mix in a little bit of a company with large and active fishes like plecostomus catfish and tinfoil barbs; others which are smaller and weaker tend to be dinner. Second, they move around A LOT, and that's why there needs to be a sandy base and a huge room for movement. To keep them from being stationary, however, many enthusiasts had already seen the benefits of placing a table tennis ball in the tank; something which is moving.

Third, they need a hell lot of nutrition, and it is better if it is alive. Be careful, however, not to introduce disease. Also, fat should be avoided as to prevent the drop eye disease. Variety should also be introduced as to prevent the onset of nutritional deficiencies, as well as the fishes getting tired of the diet. Mixes of insects, chopped meat, and pellets have been proven effective.

Fourth, it should also be known that they are naturally shaped to become excellent jumpers; they jump randomly. This calls for a tight lid. Lastly are the tank conditions; something an arowana fish tends to be meticulous about. The water should be fresh and have a well-kept pH level of 7 (neutral). The temperature also should not be far from 80 Fahrenheit, since the arowana is an equatorial fish. Again, because of its size, be prepared to have huge space for a tank which holds about 50 to 120 gallons.

The rest is for the arowana fish to ask for.

Arowana Secrets, The Most Beautiful Freshwater Fish in the World?

If you are a fish lover or fish keeper or just have an interest in some of the more exotic and mysterious creatures that inhabit our planet then let me introduce you to the 'Arowana' fish.

Considered by many to be the most beautiful freshwater fish in the world with a number of different species found in spectacular colors, the most colorful of varieties to be found in Asian rivers surrounding the Indonesian islands of Kalimantan, Sumatra, and Papua.

'Arowana' from the Indonesian word 'arwana' or 'Airwana' which in English means 'paradise' is often called the 'paradise fish' by native Indonesians. Highly revered in the orient for its spiritual significance as a re-incarnation of the Chinese dragon, signifying auspiciousness, prosperity and wealth, and even Looks a bit 'dragon'; like with its large scales and barbells and its vibrant colors, the Arowana fish has become a popular favorite with serious fish keepers world wide.

Like many exotic fish that have become popular as pets all over the world Many species of arowana are now considered to be endangered in the wild and as such are protected under law. They are farmed though and can be bought in many spectacular colors and exported under strict license laws, with each fish having to be microchiped and certified for transport before leaving Asia.

Arowana fish can carry quite a high price tag, depending on a number of factors, such as, the particular variety, the age, younger fish are generally cheaper but are a riskier purchase as the fish hasn't fully developed and its colors can't be reliably predicted when it reaches maturity, so its probably better to buy a fish that's at least two years old, though it will cost you more. Some of these fish can be worth up to $250.000 but can be bought for a few hundred dollars, the less colorful varieties usually being the cheapest.

A fantastic creature to own and surprisingly hardy, they are a great investment as arowana can live for Up to 20 yrs or more in the right conditions. Be prepared to buy a large tank though, as arowana can grow up to 40" long, tank size will need to be about 2' x 8' in size depending on the fish variety.

Keeping arowana does require some dedication especially if you want to do all that's possible to bring out its vibrant colors, and can be quite tedious, though a lot of keepers claim to form a strong bond with there precious pet and though they are a challenge the doting keeper would say that they are well worth the effort.

Need Help to Select Live Plant Species for My First Freshwater Aquarium

My first step to a planted aquarium

Who wouldn't like an organic freshwater planted aquarium compared to chemically boosted nest for their lovely pets. It is therefore essential to simulate growth of bacteria in your first planted aquarium built from scratch to help develop nutritious substrates and fertilizing agents. Under these circumstances, we go with no lights, zero fish or plants after addition of substrate. The core purpose being to allow the water to circulate and "offgas" for up to 2 or 3 days maximum before we start planting.

What kind of plants should I grow?

Ozelot Sword, one of the South American decorative plants is considered an excellent beginner's plant with an elliptical black spots on elongated reddish-brown or bright green leaves. The spots are darker on younger leaves, but remain even on mature leaves and even under low light conditions. It has a fast growth rate and can rise up to 40 cm. It is an undemanding, tolerant plant and grows happily in a wide array of conditions, including unheated tanks and those with very hard water. This plant may send up flower stalks to the surface, producing small white flowers with around 12 hours of sunlight. Place a ball of substrate gold in gravel to fertilize and feed the plant.

Narrow Leaf Java Fern is a lush, mid-ground plant often used to decorate rocks and driftwood. Java Fern is hardy plant that does not require much care. It's roots attach to the surface it is planted on. It should therefore be planted on a rock or driftwood. Java Fern can be kept in brackish tanks. It requires low lighting otherwise could melt and develop tansparent patches. It could be poisonous and so is ignored by herbivorous fish.

Cryptocoryne Wendtii comes in green, red and bronze colored variable leaves. It grows submersed in south Asian waters in bogs. Cryptocorynes are sensitive to change and therefore should only be moved when neccesary. They feed from roots and so the substrate should be rich in fertilizers and does best in warm weather.

Anubias Nana also known as "dwarf anubias" bears tough, waxy, dark green leaves sprouting from thick rhizome. It grows parallel to the ground and adheres to rocks or woods. Advantages are less need for lighting and nutrients for growth. Rooting it's rhizome under gravel could lead to it's death and need to be taken care of.

While there could be many aquarium plants like Amazon sword plant, Vallisneria, Aponogeton, etc depending upon the climatic conditions and ecological balance of your planted aquarium the above are most suitable to meet major changes and make the aquarium environment look pleasant and colorful for the health benefits of both fishes and human beings

Advantages and dis-advantages of a planted aquarium:

• It absorbs carbon-di-oxide - CO2 in daylight
• Releases oxygne - O2 during daytime
• Absorbs toxins
• Harbors beneficial bacteria
• Serves as a great food source to herbivirous fishes
• Inhibits algae growth

Main disadvantages of having a planted aquarium could be development of parasites and generation of debris from dead leaves and plants that could block the filter. Regular maintenance can help in prevention of these.

The Ultimate Way To Move Your Prized Fish Tank Safely

Tanks typically are very heavy and fragile which means tremendous care and attention will have to be used when trying to move around them. Though it is true far more care is called for whenever you are relocating a tank from a single house hold to another almost the same amount is without question appropriate as you are simply just transporting an aquarium from one room in your home to another.

Step one with transporting a fish tank is to gently move your fish straight into a different holder so that they don't get harmed. Take some of the water from the tank and pour it into a plastic container into which you may add the animals. Keep your fish at a reasonable ambient temperature and quite dimly lit in order that they do not get anxious.

If your animals are safe it is time to undertake the next step which involves removing the same amount water as feasible. Surprisingly on a brief drive water might lead to problems as it is heavy and can make the home or automobile wet. You'll want to preserve the existing water so it may be put spine into any aquarium when you are set-up once more.

Electronic apparatus needs to be turned off and stripped away from the aquarium tank. Fish tank heating elements should be able to cool-down well before they are taken off or you may take a chance on inducing problems for yourself. Internal filters should be removed and put into some existing water from the tank to keep them in good shape while outside filter systems can merely have their tubes removed.

In advance of when you relocate the actual tank itself you'll want to delicately evaluate the direction you will likely be going with. If you are moving it within any household then ensure ones walkway is clear of what you may could trip over. In case you are moving around it to a fresh household then give consideration to covering ones tank for your fish with some thick items in order to prevent damage.

Unless you personally own a small tank it is prudent to have support with regard to carrying the tank. Several individuals can take more care over the action and be certain that no wear and tear is done to you or the fish tank. Make sure to always maintain a vertical back and carry it as near to your own body as you can.

You should have a place equipped to put ones tank down when you get to ones destination and then you certainly can begin putting it back together. Refill the tank with the treated water you collected and attach all the electrically powered tank supplies you employ. This will begin to clean the treated water and heat it up ready for any fish. As soon as the water is ready be certain to be safe to change the aquarium inhabitants having efficiently transferred any fish tank.

Cycling a New Cichlid Fish Aquarium

With a new aquarium, cycling your tank is the first and most important thing you need to do. This is the process in which your aquarium needs to establish good bacteria. When you first setup your aquarium it will be contaminated with bad bacteria. Before putting cichlid fish into the tank it is important that this bad (harmful) bacteria converts into good bacteria. The first stage of bacteria will break down ammonia into nitrites, and the second stage of bacteria will break down the nitrites into nitrates. Both ammonia and nitrites are harmful to your fish, but nitrates are not, as long as they are at a safe level (below 20ppm).

There are two ways to cycle your tank: with or without fish. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, but most fish enthusiasts prefer to do a fishless cycle. Doing a fishless cycle (which I recommend) has many more advantages: it's faster, easier, and avoids permanently harming fish. Plus, the water will be completely ready for fish once the cycle is finished.

Fishless Cycle

One effective way of doing a fishless cycle is to use media, gravel, sand, or decor from another (disease free) aquarium that already has good bacteria established. If you can't find any of these materials, you can purchase bacteria in a bottle from your local fish store. Also, during this process I suggest raising the temperature in the aquarium to around 85 degrees, this allows for a faster chemical reaction.

Cycling with fish

If you decide to go the other route, then you will need hardy fish that can withstand these harmful water conditions; I suggest using either tetras or guppies. Cycling your tank with fish can take anywhere between 4-6 weeks for the nitrates to become established. You will need to do frequent water changes (20%) 3-4 times a week until the cycle is complete. Of course if you are doing a cichlid fish aquarium you will need to remove the starter fish before adding any cichlids to the tank.

Conclusion

Whichever method you chose, it is important to realize that this can be time-consuming(3-6 weeks), therefore patience is a virtue. It is also important to constantly test your water during this process to ensure that your tank is cycling properly. I recommend using a liquid test kit rather than the basic test strips. Make sure before you add sensitive fish, your nitrates are at, or below 20ppm.

Essentials Before You "Fish" Around For An Aquarium

People love the companionship of pets. Pets tend to have a symbiotic relationship with people and although they tend to be self-sufficient (cats, hamsters, etc...) so long as you provide an environment they can thrive in and provide the essentials of life they can't get on their own. 

Some pets take more work than others to take care of but one of the nice things about fish and aquariums are that other than having to clean the tank once a month, feeding them daily, and allowing a filtering system to clean the water automatically, they are essentially worry free.

One thing that makes fish a lot of fun is that you can build and maintain, even change their environment whenever you want to change its appeal (to both you and the fish). Human nature states that we're creative beings with the ability to manifest what we want through cause and effect. A fish, however, simply lives in the environment, a non sentient being that requires us to take care of it. 

This symbiotic relationship mean that we need each other and can provide one another some relaxation and intrigue. A fish can be an intriguing pet, but as a care taker we not only are required to make sure the fish can survive in his new aquarium, but we can also build it for our own pleasure, eye candy and meditative calm.

Although the aquarium is designed to assure the fish survives and is happy, it's built as much for our enjoyment as it is for the fish. This means that building an aquarium can be a great therapeutic tool, a way to teach children responsibility, and to bring a new dimension to a room, bringing life and beauty together. 

There's just something cool about a fish tank that makes people want to look and observe the simple life of a fish. There are many types of fish to choose from, some are friendly towards other fish, some with only specific non predatory fish, and others must be alone.

When choosing what type of fish you want, you need to consider how much your willing to put into taking care of the fish. There are many species of fish that require nothing more than a cleaning system (filter for the water) and a thorough cleaning monthly (rocks, internal components of the scenery in the tank), maybe even bi-weekly depending on the fish and the amount of fish in the tank. 

There are also fish that require a specific environment such as water with salt in it (saltwater fish), a specific balance of chemicals in the water, a consistent temperature (cold or warm), and others that require special care that goes far beyond just set it and forget it until the cleaning.

It's best to do your homework on the fish you want BEFORE you start figuring out what kind of tank you want. If you get the wrong tank, it is more difficult to get the water balanced correctly and you could kill the fishes. 

Fish are fascinating, and you may want to start out with the easy type to take care of and a small tank. You can evolve into the different types of fish, but be sure to get different tanks for different fish that require specific environmental controls as stated above. There is much to learn about fish. They are not just benign creatures, they are full of life and experience emotions just like we do. Learning about fish is a wonderful experience, and the fish depends on you for it's happiness.

Give Your Children A Fun And Exciting Way To Learn About Sea Life With An Aquarium

Aquariums are fascinating to look at- especially if you go to a pet store and see all the wonderful configurations, types of fish, and all the many variables involved. Building a fish tank ecosystem (habitat) can be a simple thing or very complex. Depending on what you want in your aquarium, your tank could take on a unique and intriguing life of it's own. Much like cats are practically maintenance free except for needing to feed them and clean out their litter box, fish are much the same way.

Although cleaning out a large tank or a tank with a complex array of "innards" is no easy or even fun task to take on twice or more a month, this can actually be a lot of fun if you involve your children. If you show your kids how to build a tank, picking all the elements, going online and learning about the various fish you saw in the pet store, and picking what they want they will have the opportunity to learn a lot.

Kids are naturally curious and if you teach them early how to research about the fish and what is involved in building an aquarium, you teach them a valuable skill set they can use throughout the rest of their lives. It used to be that the only way to learn was to go to the pet store and depend on the knowledge of the sales staff or check out books from the library about fish. Today, with the advent of the internet and the plethora of informative sites on just about every type of fish and plant life, building and researching an aquarium is now easier than before.

Building your tank is a holistic experience. It's one that teaches responsibility, can be a lot of fun trying out different fish over the years, and it prepares kids for life's many responsible moments by showing them the details, execution, and on going lessons that owning a fish can entail.

To build a tank, you should first show your kids how to find information on fish. Show them that there are different fish that can't survive together or that can't survive in each others ecosystem. An example is salt water fish can't live and thrive in fresh water, while fresh water fish can't live and thrive (and will surely die) in salt water. Then you can show them how some fish are hunters and will attack other species of fish.

Once you learn all you can about the fish, reverse engineer and build the best habitat for the fish types you want. That way you'll have the greatest chance of success and you can really bring life to the home!

The Benefits of the Vinegar Nematode

The vinegar nematode has a lot of advantages to other types of nematodes. There are four common kinds of nematodes in similar size ranges that are fed to fish and fry as live fish foods. These include microworms, banana worms, Walter's worms, and vinegar eels. Microworms, banana worms, and Walter's worms are all grown in a medium of grain often oatmeal, cornmeal, baby cereal, or mashed potatoes. However, vinegar eels have four main advantages over these other nematodes.

• First of all, they are grown in vinegar. While many people dislike the smell of apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar they never smell different then that. On the other hand, the other types of nematodes can smell bad. In fact, the older they get, the worse they smell. Over time, they get to the point where they smell horrible. If the cultures go bad then the smell is even worse and can make your stomach feel upset.
• Next it should be noted that vinegar eels are easy. Microworms and other nematodes often require you to add food about once a week. Then after two or three weeks they need to be started over. This can be time-consuming, especially if you have large cultures or a number of them. On the other hand, the vinegar eel culture only needs a bit of food added to it once a month and it will last for a minimum of three months, but often up to six.
• The next thing that should be noted is that vinegar eels are a lot easier for fry and fish to eat. The other nematodes drown and they live on the surface of sour paste. The microworm is called the sour paste nematode. However, when added to the water they slowly sink to the bottom. They can then crawl into the substrate or sand if they are not eaten by snails or bottom feeders. Finally, they can die and add waste to your water quality. On the other hand, vinegar eels swim. They stick at the top of the surface and stay there. This makes it easier for them to be eaten by the fry and can even be seen by larger fish who might miss the sinking microworms.
• The vinegar eels can live for days in the water. In fact, they may be able to live for weeks, but it's hard to know because the fish will grab them up. Because they can live in the water and they aren't going to die before the fish eat them, they also won't add waste to your water.

These benefits make them more appealing to many than the microworms, banana worms, or Walter's worms. These easy to keep cultures can be set up, set aside, and brought out when you need them. A starter culture of the vinegar nematode is inexpensive, and if you start a regular new culture you will be able to keep them forever.

Maintaining Cichlid's Water

If you're still a beginner in the hobby of raising and keeping cichlids, the seemingly complicated specifications of water chemistry may have you worried. However, believe it or not, obtaining and maintaining the correct water chemistry for your cichlid fish may be less complicated than you think. There are three important properties that need to be measured and adjusted in order to give your cichlids the most ideal water chemistry possible. Those three are pH, GH, and KH.

pH 

Having the correct pH balance in your cichlid's water is probably the most important part of good water chemistry. Your water's pH balance describes whether it is more acidic, more alkaline, or just plain neutral. If your water tests for a pH balance of seven, this means it is perfectly neutral - an ideal balance for most fish. Any number greater than seven means it has an alkaline balance, and any number less than seven means it is acidic.

Even the slightest changes in the pH balance of your water can upset your delicate cichlids so try to keep a stable level. If you need to make adjustments, be sure that you don't raise or lower the level by more than a third of a point per day. Keep in mind that each number on the pH scale signifies a difference of ten times more or less acidity or alkalinity than the numbers adjacent to it. A reading of six - just one point less than a neutral seven - means your water is ten times more acidic.

General Hardness (GH) 

The hardness of your water is measured by the amount of calcium and magnesium it contains. Many African cichlids are happiest in an aquarium with a GH level that hovers somewhere between 160 and 320 parts per million. Because calcium and magnesium do not keep for very long in water, your aquarium's GH level will steadily drop if not manually adjusted. There are various scales used to measure water hardness so make sure to determine which of them your testing kit is using before judging the results.

Carbonate Hardness (KH) 

The carbonate hardness level of your water describes the level of carbonates and bicarbonates it contains. It measures your water's ability to keep a stable pH level, which, as we know, is crucial to the survival of your cichlids. With a sufficiently high KH level, your water will maintain its pH balance even through various changes. The right amount of carbonates and bicarbonates acts like a vacuum cleaner, absorbing any harmful additives before they affect the acidity of your precious water. A good KH range is usually somewhere between 180 to 240 parts per million.

Testing 

It's important to test your aquarium's water for these three properties to ensure that your fish are as healthy as they can be. Having the correct levels in all three of these categories will contribute to happier, prettier cichlids that will live longer, more natural lives.

One of the most accurate water testing kits is the API liquid test kit, which comes with a number of different tests for various minerals. As a rule, liquid drop test kits are generally of better quality than the cheaper but less accurate test strips.

How to Adjust and Maintain pH and KH 

Because cichlids are so vulnerable to even the slightest changes in their water chemistry, if you need to adjust any of these levels, it's important to do so slowly. Adding one teaspoon of baking soda for every five gallons of water in your tank can help to slowly begin raising its pH and KH balance if needed, but make sure that you add it slowly(too fast can harm the fish). This should be dissolved ahead of time in a glass of aquarium water.

Each time you do a water change, you will need to add 1 teaspoon of baking soda for every 5 gallons that you take out. For example, if you take out 30 gallons of water, you will need to put 6 teaspoons of baking soda in. This should also be dissolved before adding it to the aquarium.

Lowering your pH balance is much trickier as you first need to obliterate the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water, after which you can then lower the pH. Driftwood and sodium biphosphate both contain acids that will get the job done nicely, but be sure to keep a close eye on your water. After you are finished the process, restore your water's KH balance with crushed coral, limestone, or oyster shell.

Caring for Your Discus Fish

Discus are a popular tropical fish species to keep in the home. If looked after they can live for quite a few years but on average it is four to five. There are some key tips for keeping Discus Fish in good condition. Some of these are typical to all tropical fish and some are specific to Discus.

As they are quite a large fish, they need a lot of space and a large tropical fish tank should be used. The size will vary depending on how many fish you intend to keep but a tank of at least 40 gallons should be used.

The temperature needs to be kept at a fairly constant and Discus like it quite hot (about 82-86 deg Fahrenheit). To maintain this temperature, the tank should be kept away from sources of cold and heat such as draughts from windows and external doors, direct sunlight and fires or radiators. A reliable aquarium heater should be used, and if you have a large tank it is worth having more than one to distribute the heat evenly and as a back up.

The first time you fill the fish tank it should be left for two to three weeks for the filters to settle in and the water should be treated with a chemical agent. Any fish tank equipment, ornaments or gravels need to be thoroughly washed a few times, to remove dirt and bacteria, before placing them in the water.

Discus Fish will eat a variety of foods including flakes and frozen shrimp.

The tropical fish tank should be cleaned regularly and as Discus are a large fish, they produce a lot of waste so the water should be changed, or at least partially changed on a weekly basis to ensure a healthy environment. It is also a good idea to use a large and efficient filter to as Discus need very clean water.

Discus are a communal, and generally non-aggressive species and several can be kept together. Ideally if you intend to add any new fish to the aquarium, they should be kept in a separate quarantine tank for a few days and observed for any signs of disease or other issues before introducing them into the main fish tank with other fish. Other tropical fish can be kept in the same tank but it is best to avoid other large fish or fast swimmers. Bottom feeding catfish make an ideal tank companion.

Discus's live on average four to five years but may last longer if you look after them well.

Arowana Care: Different Shades of Gold

One of the favorite fishes of hobbyists is the golden arowana fish, since not only does it intensify its association with power and wealth due to its distinct coloration, they also tend to come in different variants, and enthusiasts had even put them into a scale. One of the levels of grading golden arowanas is the Red Tail Golden (RTG) arowanas. This variant is known to have a distinct coppery development of scale coloration. However, the second and third rows of the scales give off a slightly purplish sheen. The fins are also coppery red, almost brown-red, while the row of scales directly near them ranges from dark grey to black.

Another level, and the one that holds the most prestige, is the Full Scale Gold (FSG) arowana fish. Based on its name, it is obvious that this variety boasts an almost solid pattern of gold scales. Indeed, it does, with scales which may or may not give off a purplish sheen. It is also known for a sharp black line around its eyes. Unlike the RTG arowanas, FSG arowanas have yellow-brown to solid gold pectoral and ventral fins. These features are also the ones being sought first when buying a golden arowana.

An enthusiast with an eye for an arowana fish might notice the difference, but a beginner couldn't tell an FSG from a High Back RTG. If the FSG is known for its black eye line, the High Back RTG has a blue-green or brown-red eye line; varying hues might be easily mistakened as black. Also, two-thirds down the pectoral and ventral fins, the supposedly yellow-brown or golden coloration turns coppery, sometimes dark red. Other varieties which are out in the market are relatively new, like the Malaysian gold and Australian gold, all of which are not yet known to many hobbyists.

A fully-grown adult arowana fish has a formidable countenance often cloaked in bright colors, but it does not mean it began like that as well. In fact, regardless of the variety and color, anl arowana starts off as fragile, vulnerable silver fry. In fact, they are so helpless that for the first five to six weeks, they have with them an egg sac, which provides them with food and nutrition. Their minute form also exposes them to danger, and that is why the young arowanas can be usually found in groups of ten. When they are old enough to lose their sacs, which is when the territoriality and aggressiveness kicks in while they look for themselves bugs and small aquatic animals to feed upon.

If anarowana fish is well taken care of, add to that well-kept tank conditions, it grows very rapidly, hence its reputation as being a gigantic fish. In fact, it is very noticeable that it grows and does not seem to stop. After about a year, many arowana owners see their pets reaching sizes of almost one foot! Indeed, this adaptation is really important as in their natural habitats, predators are usually of the lengths between two to three meters; something evolution shaped to make the arowana survive. Indeed, if one keeps on taking good care of the arowana, it will continue growing, given that there is enough room, food, and patience.

The arowana fish exhibits slight sexual dimorphism, as it is seen that males have bigger and deeper mouths. In mating, the two fishes will swim in pair and find a spot to make a nest, usually from mud. Once the female lays the eggs, the male inseminates them and eventually puts them in his mouth to incubate them; something unique for the arowanas.

Arowana Care: Arowanas Can Be With the Others!

The arowana fish is a formidable hunter in its natural habitats. Putting it in a tank with other fishes had proven to be a tricky endeavour; arowanas are meat eaters and highly territorial. However, knowing how the arowana behaves in the wild, one might be equipped with the knowledge on how to keep arowanas in harmony with other fishes. One thing to consider, as what had already been said, is its territoriality. 

An arowana does not want any other arowana in sight, for they will most likely compete and fight with each other -- something a fish keeper does not want to happen. However, it was shown that in groups in at least four or five fishes, the aggressive behavior are subdued.

Another thing with the arowana fish is that they it loves meat; they are carnivores. Driven by its natural instinct, therefore, one already knows that it is most likely to devour smaller and more vulnerable fishes in the tank. Knowing that, one must, as much as possible, keep the arowana away from smaller fishes. This does not mean, however, that the arowana is meant to live alone. One thing we can use to the tank's advantage is that the arowana is a surface feeder; it spends most of its time in the surface.

Given specifications about different varieties and species of domestic fishes, one is ought to find middle and bottom dwellers to go with an arowana. For instance, fishes like the blue ram, dwarf cory, or snow tetra will not only bring color to a tank, but also prove to be good companions since they are middle dwellers. In addition, bottom feeders like the janitor fish is also a good companion not only to the arowana fish, but also to the fish keeper as well; it helps with the maintenance.

Who thought that a big strange fish will attract thousands of admirers and hobbyists? Just look at the arowana fish and one will know why. It resembles the crust dragon, which is a symbol of power and good fortune. People associated this with the art of feng shui and how could one harness its luck attracting energy. This is why in Hong Kong; the belief is strong that any kind or variety of the arowana brings in luck and good energy in a household. That is why the trade for the arowanas is booming.

Most arowanas from the Asian stock have bright flaming colors which are even more identifiable with the crust dragon. This is why people are going crazy over this arowana fish, but consequently, they are having smaller and smaller populations. In fact, the Asian varieties are now being micro chipped to easily track them for the best ones can cost up to $6,000! 

Definitely the price tells much of this fish, as it requires specialized care; they are not the typical pet fishes. They are known to be great hunters of the Amazon, and a responsible pet owner is ought not to drastically change that environment in the arowana's tank. Few may the numbers be of the Asian stock, but newer stocks like the South American (closer to the arapaima) and Australian (usually rusty gold) are being bred now; all just as beautiful but not really endangered.

Many people want the arowana fish for its believed auspicious powers, or just because of its sheer beauty. This also leads many breeders to produce inferior and substandard varieties, all being led by desires for profits and capital. Sad this truth may be, this compels an aspiring hobbyist to be careful with choosing the arowana to buy.

Arowana Food Part 2

Arowana Food: Fish

There's a whole lot of fish available in the market for use as Arowana food. Actually, as long as the fish is not toxic or venomous and as long as it is smaller than the Arowana you will be feeding it to, then it is okay for your pet to eat it. However, there are still dangers that come along with supplying fish into your Arowana's diet. These, and other facts about fish as Arowana food, will be discussed in this article.

As mentioned above, plenty of fish could be fed to Arowanas. The most usual of which are small chidlid, baby catfish, baby koi, meadow fish and feeder goldfish. However, as was also previously stated, there are risks in using fish in your Arowana's regimen. Because they are waterborne, chances of infection are bigger. Also, a number of these said fish are high on cholesterol which causes the drop eye condition in Arowanas. Dietary deficit is also a usual result of using goldfish as Arowana food because of some of its enzymes. Therefore, goldfish is not really a good choice of sustenance for Arowanas.

However, if you still plan on including live fish in your Arowana's diet, then you must always remember to keep these fish away for a minimum of five days to ensure that they are safe to eat before you feed them to your Arowana. Also, so that your Arowana could receive more nutrition, then you can first feed these feeder fish right before you give them to your Arowana. This method can also be done when you're trying to pass medicine on to your pet fish.

In conclusion, it is okay use live fish as Arowana food as long as one keeps in mind the dangers that come along with it. Remember to quarantine them before use and avoid using feeder goldfish. Lastly, keep varying what you feed your Arowana so that it will stay healthy at all times.

Arowana Food: Live Prawns

Among the many available Arowana food, the one which will be discussed in this article is live prawns, or in simpler terms, shrimp. Like the various other types of food that Arowanas can eat, there are also advantages and disadvantages when feeding shrimp to your Arowana. Here, you will find out exactly what these are.

One of the advantages is the fact that, like any other crustacean, shrimps are a very good source of nourishment. However, there are also disadvantages to using shrimp as Arowana food, just like the other living creatures that an Arowana eats. So just as you would do to other live food, detaining the shrimps for at least five days before feeding them to your Arowana is important to ensure that they are clean and disease free. Another drawback in using live prawn is that when they are left in your aquarium, your Arowana would tend to persistently hunt for them downwards, one cause of the drop eye problem in Arowanas.

Lastly, do not feed these crustaceans to an Arowana that is when it is still in its earliest stage of development. This is because the carcasses of the prawns are very hard for the baby Arowana's digestive system to break down, thus giving them stomach troubles. Nevertheless, shrimps are still abundant in vitamin A, the vitamin that heightens and improves the color of Arowanas, so it is still a good source of nutrition.

Now you know the advantages and disadvantages of using live prawns as Arowana food. If you're thinking twice about what to feed your pet Arowana, look back on this article and review what you've read. Shrimps are a good source of vitamin A, but using them all the time may cause the drop eye problem. So keep alternating between prawns and the other food available for Arowanas and you can be sure to be hassle free in growing your pet.

Arowana Food: The Basics

An Arowana must be fed a variety of Arowana food so that the probability rate of insufficiency in nutrition could be lowered. Also, an Arowana must never be overfed. Doing so causes an Arowana to lose its desire to eat, which in turn leads it to starve itself for a long interval. This is also one of the reasons for the dwindling of an Arowana's life expectancy as well as its capacity to breed.

The size of an Arowana must also be taken into consideration when one is trying to know how much to feed it. Arowana food must be given three times a day if the Arowana is at a length under 6 inches. Conversely, an Arowana that measures between 6 and 14 inches must have two meals within 24 hours. Finally, if the Arowana has reached its peak size of more than 14 inches, then it must be fed only once every day.

In its natural habitat, an Arowana's diet includes bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish. When in captivity, however, owners may opt to train their Arowana to accept artificial feeds. Still, to ensure that an Arowana remains healthy when you make it your pet, the above mentioned should stay as a staple in its regimen.

There's added nutrition in organic food, but there are also dangers that come along in choosing to feed the latter to your Arowana. Maladies can enter your aquarium through the things you put inside it, so to avoid the latter from happening, detain live food for a couple of days before letting your Arowana to eat it.

These are just the basic things you need to know when it comes to Arowana food. To ensure you have a complete understanding of what to feed your pet Arowana, read further on the different types of bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish that can nourish it.

Arowana Food

Arowana Food: Crickets

There are many types of food you can feed your Arowana. From insects to amphibians, from worms to different sea creatures, and even artificial feeds, there's a whole lot of food available for this type of fish. In this article, however, you will find everything you need to know about one type of bug that Arowanas like to eat. In this article, crickets as Arowana food will be the main topic of discussion.

A spectrum of nutrients is provided to an Arowana when a cricket is fed to it. Illnesses and disorders are also rare occurrences when feeding an Arowana this type of food. However, one must remember to take off the tough shell protecting the cricket when feeding it to an Arowana when it is still in its infantile stage so that stomach problems may be circumvented. 

Making sure that the cricket is farm bred is also important due to the fact that a wild cricket may have been already sprayed with insecticide, thus making it quite dangerous for the health of your Arowana. The measure of the cricket should also be suitable to the size of the Arowana it will be fed to. As Arowana food, freezing a cricket may also be done to promote an untroubled meal.

Additionally, making a cricket consume vegetables with vitamin A, such as carrots and squash, could also be done before the bug is given to the Arowana so that there could be a transmission of sustenance. Arowanas benefit from vitamin A in such a way that its color receives a boost, especially in cases of red Arowanas.

In conclusion, there are many benefits to using a cricket as Arowana food. However, one must always keep in mind that in feeding an Arowana, variety is always needed so that alimentary deficit may be prevented.

Arowana Food: Cockroaches

Another Arowana food that could be easily found everywhere is cockroaches. This insect has the same value as crickets when it comes to feeding your pet Arowana. However, one should always keep in mind the dangers of letting an Arowana eat a dead cockroach. A reason behind this is the fact that it is unsanitary. Also, it may have died due to pesticide, thus making it unhealthy for your pet to eat. Therefore, always choose farm bred cockroaches if you're going to feed them to your Arowana.

As previously stated, cockroaches are just like crickets when it comes to feeding your pet Arowana. This type of Arowana food has the same nutritional value as crickets do and just like the latter, cockroaches could also be given nutritional supplements containing vitamin A so that when it is their turn to be eaten by the Arowana, the sustenance is passed on. It is good to feed the cockroaches with squash, carrots and other vegetables containing vitamin A before they are fed to the Arowana because the said vitamin causes an Arowana's color to improve. 

On another note, just like crickets, the size of the cockroaches you feed your Arowana should also be proportional to the length of your Arowana. Lastly, because they are just the same as crickets, you could also freeze them before letting your Arowana eat them, and it is also advisable to quarantine them for a couple of days before feeding them to your Arowana to ensure that they are free of any ailments.

So if you plan on using cockroaches as your Arowana food of choice, keep in mind the information found on this article and you'll surely be trouble free in the health department of your pet Arowana. However, you should also always remember that diversity should always be present in your Arowana's diet to keep it healthy at all times. Hang on to these reminders and your Arowana will surely live a long life.

New World Cichlids

New World Cichlids can be found in the continents of North America, South America, and Central America. These fish make wonderful pets due to their unique colors, their interesting personalities, and the ease with which they may be maintained.

The angel fish is one of the most common New World cichlids. A South American cichlid, the angel fish is beautiful and queenly but needs very specific water conditions. Angel fish are generally triangular-shaped with long, string-like fins trailing behind them and sometimes a stripe or two across their backs.

Another common New World cichlid is the convict, so named because of its feisty temperament. Convict cichlids may be bullies but they can live in a wide variety of aquarium conditions and are easy to keep and breed. Convicts can be identified by their light blue bodies and the dark black, zebra stripes across their backs.

The Jack Dempsey is also a favorite among cichlid lovers. Like the convict, the Jack Dempsey can be moody, and as an adult he can grow up to nearly a foot in length. Jack Dempseys are dark brown but males usually have splashes or dots of bright blue or green on their sides and humps on their foreheads. Jack Dempseys are easy to keep and need large open spaces as well as caves to hide in.

In the wild, North and Central American cichlids are found in rivers and lakes. Some lay their eggs in the sand of the river bottoms while others lay them simply on top of rocks at the bottom of the lake in which they reside. Some even make their homes in tiny underwater caves and tunnels. South American cichlids are usually found in water conditions that are more acidic such as black water regions in the Amazonian basin.

The aquarium requirements for these types of fish vary according to their natural habit. North and Central American cichlids are more adept at adapting to vary aquarium conditions but need good hiding places or caves in their aquarium for refuge. These should not be kept in any tank with a length of less than 48 inches.

The South American cichlid usually needs much more specific water conditions in the aquarium in which it is kept. The pH balance of the water needs to be quite low - sometimes as low as six - and the water itself needs to be very soft. Plants are popular with the South American cichlid, although certain species may cause havoc to underwater plants.

One of the best things about New World cichlids is that there are so many from which to choose. The variety available among these species of fish is simply astounding and there is always something new to discover. New World cichlid fish can be a joy to take care of and a delight to own.

Choosing African Cichlids

African Cichlids are among the most popular fresh water aquarium exotics. They fill fresh water aquariums with the diversity of colors and patterns often associated with salt water aquariums.

Cichlids can range in size from four to nine inches. Breeds can be very different ranging from zebra stripes to giraffe spots to bright colors. Often the males are vividly beautiful and the females mutely colored. Some are even dichromatic with the males and females looking like completely different species.

Easy Care Breeds

Many cichlids are considered easy to care for. Among these are the 'sunshine peacock' cichlid and the colorful 'Eureka Red Peacock'. Each grow to an average of 5.9 inches(depending on tank conditions). The males are known for their beautiful coloration, just like the bird of the same name. Another easy breed is the blue dolphin cichlid, which can grow to be 10 inches, and the 'Afra' or 'dogtooth' cichlids which grow to only 3.9 inches. The 'Venustus' cichlid is another easy care breed and has giraffe spots while in its juvenile state.

Rock Caves Needed For Some Breeds

One entertaining, easy care breed is the gorgeous 'electric yellow' Malawi cichlid. This is a very popular breed among the Malawi Cichlids. To create the best living conditions, the aquarium should include rock caves where males are able to establish territories. Other rock cave dwellers include the 'red zebra', the 'cobalt blue', and the 'johanni blue'. These fish are entertaining and social creatures.

Snail Shell Dwellers

Several breeds of cichlids, such as the striped 'neolamprologus similis' and the neolamprologus multifasciatus', are actually shell dwellers. They prefer to make their homes in an empty snail shell. To make them feel at home, the tank should have many shells and a sandy bottom. Plants should be well anchored because these cichlids like to bury the shells in the sand.

Dwarf Cichlids

Dwarf cichlids come in a variety of colors and patterns, just like their slightly bigger cousins. One of the most common is the 'blue ram' which is considered easy to care for. Other dwarfs need a higher level of expert care. These include the 'checkerboard', 'two-stripe', 'three-stripe', 'panda', 'cockatoo' and 'zebra' dwarf cichlids.

Aggression

When choosing among cichlids, it is best to find out how aggressive the males of any breed will be. The 'electric yellow' Malawi Cichlids are known to be a pretty calm fish. However, mixing the wrong species together can cause severe aggression, so be careful when choosing your tank mates!

By following simple guidelines, you will be able to fill your aquarium with these exciting species and know that they will bring years of joy and entertainment.