Arowana Care: There's a Fossil in My Tank!

The Amazon River is probably the most widely used poster image for biodiversity; the whole stretch of freshwater running for miles is the home to a huge fraction of the world's flora and fauna. Among the animals which live here, the fishes have the most number and most diverse. One of the well-known and well-loved fish species is what people call as the "water monkey of the Amazon" -- the arowana fish.

The earliest fossils of the ancestors of the arowanafish date to 200 million years ago in the rivers of Africa, but the fish we know today found its home in the Amazon River 140 millions of years ago, dating back to the Early Cretaceous period. Ever since then, given its superb features, the fish had changed very little; hence it is sometimes called as a living fossil. That is why the arowana does not look like the modern pet fishes which are commercially available; they boast a history dating millions of years back. 

This fish can grow to lengths of four to six feet, all thirty pounds of pure muscle which gives them excellent darting abilities. They also have huge eyes which led some ecologists to assume that they have one of the sharpest sights of all the fishes. Another tell tale sign of it being a living fossil is that it has a swim bladder capable of directly infusing oxygen to the blood vessels, something which lungs of terrestrial animals can do.

In the Amazon river alone, there are already three subspecies of the arowana fish, all stemming from the evolutionary branch of Osteoglossum (bony mouths). Since people started breeding these fishes outside the Amazon, there are already other species which can be found in Asia and Africa. The Amazonian arowana boasts a slender and broad body, but the newer species are shorter and stockier compared to the original generation.

Domestic fishes nowadays are getting smaller and more colorful; people tend to flock around fishes which look "cute" with vibrant colors resembling that of neon lights and commercial inks. With this trend, the arowana fish is reduced to just becoming a living fossil, a fish with jurassic and grotesque features. However, one should see the beauty in these fishes, and this beauty is not something many people take for granted. Just like in any beauty pageant, certain criteria, all set to critics' and experts' highest standards must be met.

One, there are the proportions, and for the arowana fish, the broad look is becoming more of the trend: wide body with well-proportioned fins and a pointed mouth forming a good slope between the head and its back. This look gives them the look of strength. Second is the color which should be bright, uniform, and lustrous with the hue depending on the variety. 

The scales should also be of the same color to each other and should be distinct from one another. Third are the fins, which should be not too long and cramped and should have a color not far from the body color. The barbels should also have the same color as that of the body's and should also look firm and long.

Fourth are the eyes, which should not be popping out and protruding. Fifth is the mouth, and the mouth of the arowana fish points upwards where either the upper or the lower lip protrudes. Sixth are the teeth which should look neatly arranged in line with its jaw. Lastly, and most importantly, is its swimming posture. Even though it looks like a misfit with its size and features, an arowana will always stand out because of its smooth and majestic movements; the swimming posture should not look shaky and erratic.

Cycling a New Cichlid Fish Aquarium

With a new aquarium, cycling your tank is the first and most important thing you need to do. This is the process in which your aquarium needs to establish good bacteria. When you first setup your aquarium it will be contaminated with bad bacteria. Before putting cichlid fish into the tank it is important that this bad (harmful) bacteria converts into good bacteria. The first stage of bacteria will break down ammonia into nitrites, and the second stage of bacteria will break down the nitrites into nitrates. Both ammonia and nitrites are harmful to your fish, but nitrates are not, as long as they are at a safe level (below 20ppm).

There are two ways to cycle your tank: with or without fish. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, but most fish enthusiasts prefer to do a fishless cycle. Doing a fishless cycle (which I recommend) has many more advantages: it's faster, easier, and avoids permanently harming fish. Plus, the water will be completely ready for fish once the cycle is finished.

Fishless Cycle

One effective way of doing a fishless cycle is to use media, gravel, sand, or decor from another (disease free) aquarium that already has good bacteria established. If you can't find any of these materials, you can purchase bacteria in a bottle from your local fish store. Also, during this process I suggest raising the temperature in the aquarium to around 85 degrees, this allows for a faster chemical reaction.

Cycling with fish

If you decide to go the other route, then you will need hardy fish that can withstand these harmful water conditions; I suggest using either tetras or guppies. Cycling your tank with fish can take anywhere between 4-6 weeks for the nitrates to become established. You will need to do frequent water changes (20%) 3-4 times a week until the cycle is complete. Of course if you are doing a cichlid fish aquarium you will need to remove the starter fish before adding any cichlids to the tank.

Conclusion

Whichever method you chose, it is important to realize that this can be time-consuming(3-6 weeks), therefore patience is a virtue. It is also important to constantly test your water during this process to ensure that your tank is cycling properly. I recommend using a liquid test kit rather than the basic test strips. Make sure before you add sensitive fish, your nitrates are at, or below 20ppm.

Aquarium Design - Rocks

One of the key ingredients of any aquarium design is rock. Properly chosen, prepared and positioned rocks can transform an otherwise clinical setup environment into an attractive replica of actual natural habitat of the fish and plant.

It is important to note that rocks are not all identical in terms of composition nor are they all suitable for your aquarium. It is important for you to do some tests to check if the rocks are safe before you dump them into your fish tank. To a certain extent, the type of rocks that you can safely use depends on the type of fish and plant species.

The recommended type of rocks for freshwater aquarium are collectively known as inert rocks. This group of rocks includes basalt, obsidian, coal, quartz, sandstone and shale. As the name suggest, this class of rock does not affect water chemistry. It is a safe choice for freshwater aquarium.

Calcareous rocks alter the pH level and raise hardness of the water. This is in direct contrast to inert rock that is known to be aquarium safe. Some calcareous rock varieties include chalk, limestone and marble. These types of rocks are good for hard water or brackish aquariums particularly if the intention is to raise the pH level or hardness of the water without having to resort to chemical treatment.

How To Test The Rock

There is a simple way to determine if a rock is safe for your aquarium. Here is what you ought to do. Firstly, fill a bucket with water from a source that your normally use for instance tap water or preferably old aquarium water.

Note down the pH, hardness, nitrates and the phosphates level of the water. Put the rock into the bucket and let it soak for a week or so and then test the water again. Compare the readings before and after the soaking. If the subsequent readings do not deviate much from the original readings, the rock is not likely to adversely affect your aquarium.

Another simple test is what is called the' vinegar test'. Put a few drops of white vinegar on the rock. The rock is deemed calcareous if the solution foams. You should not use this rock unless your intention is to alter the water chemistry.

How To Prepare The Rock

Once you have confirmed that the rock is aquarium safe, the first thing that you need to do is to disinfect it. You need to get rid of pathogens that might reside within the rock crevices. Start by brushing and rinsing debris off the rock surface. Next, cook it in hot water and allow it to dry in the sun before placing it in the aquarium.

Choosing suitable rocks for your aquarium design and decoration is not a difficult task. All that is required of you is some knowledge on how to test the rock to ensure it does not alter the water chemistry that may affect your fish and plant.

Maintaining Cichlid's Water

If you're still a beginner in the hobby of raising and keeping cichlids, the seemingly complicated specifications of water chemistry may have you worried. However, believe it or not, obtaining and maintaining the correct water chemistry for your cichlid fish may be less complicated than you think. There are three important properties that need to be measured and adjusted in order to give your cichlids the most ideal water chemistry possible. Those three are pH, GH, and KH.

pH 

Having the correct pH balance in your cichlid's water is probably the most important part of good water chemistry. Your water's pH balance describes whether it is more acidic, more alkaline, or just plain neutral. If your water tests for a pH balance of seven, this means it is perfectly neutral - an ideal balance for most fish. Any number greater than seven means it has an alkaline balance, and any number less than seven means it is acidic.

Even the slightest changes in the pH balance of your water can upset your delicate cichlids so try to keep a stable level. If you need to make adjustments, be sure that you don't raise or lower the level by more than a third of a point per day. Keep in mind that each number on the pH scale signifies a difference of ten times more or less acidity or alkalinity than the numbers adjacent to it. A reading of six - just one point less than a neutral seven - means your water is ten times more acidic.

General Hardness (GH) 

The hardness of your water is measured by the amount of calcium and magnesium it contains. Many African cichlids are happiest in an aquarium with a GH level that hovers somewhere between 160 and 320 parts per million. Because calcium and magnesium do not keep for very long in water, your aquarium's GH level will steadily drop if not manually adjusted. There are various scales used to measure water hardness so make sure to determine which of them your testing kit is using before judging the results.

Carbonate Hardness (KH) 

The carbonate hardness level of your water describes the level of carbonates and bicarbonates it contains. It measures your water's ability to keep a stable pH level, which, as we know, is crucial to the survival of your cichlids. With a sufficiently high KH level, your water will maintain its pH balance even through various changes. The right amount of carbonates and bicarbonates acts like a vacuum cleaner, absorbing any harmful additives before they affect the acidity of your precious water. A good KH range is usually somewhere between 180 to 240 parts per million.

Testing 

It's important to test your aquarium's water for these three properties to ensure that your fish are as healthy as they can be. Having the correct levels in all three of these categories will contribute to happier, prettier cichlids that will live longer, more natural lives.

One of the most accurate water testing kits is the API liquid test kit, which comes with a number of different tests for various minerals. As a rule, liquid drop test kits are generally of better quality than the cheaper but less accurate test strips.

How to Adjust and Maintain pH and KH 

Because cichlids are so vulnerable to even the slightest changes in their water chemistry, if you need to adjust any of these levels, it's important to do so slowly. Adding one teaspoon of baking soda for every five gallons of water in your tank can help to slowly begin raising its pH and KH balance if needed, but make sure that you add it slowly(too fast can harm the fish). This should be dissolved ahead of time in a glass of aquarium water.

Each time you do a water change, you will need to add 1 teaspoon of baking soda for every 5 gallons that you take out. For example, if you take out 30 gallons of water, you will need to put 6 teaspoons of baking soda in. This should also be dissolved before adding it to the aquarium.

Lowering your pH balance is much trickier as you first need to obliterate the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water, after which you can then lower the pH. Driftwood and sodium biphosphate both contain acids that will get the job done nicely, but be sure to keep a close eye on your water. After you are finished the process, restore your water's KH balance with crushed coral, limestone, or oyster shell.