The Benefits of the Vinegar Nematode

The vinegar nematode has a lot of advantages to other types of nematodes. There are four common kinds of nematodes in similar size ranges that are fed to fish and fry as live fish foods. These include microworms, banana worms, Walter's worms, and vinegar eels. Microworms, banana worms, and Walter's worms are all grown in a medium of grain often oatmeal, cornmeal, baby cereal, or mashed potatoes. However, vinegar eels have four main advantages over these other nematodes.

• First of all, they are grown in vinegar. While many people dislike the smell of apple cider vinegar or wine vinegar they never smell different then that. On the other hand, the other types of nematodes can smell bad. In fact, the older they get, the worse they smell. Over time, they get to the point where they smell horrible. If the cultures go bad then the smell is even worse and can make your stomach feel upset.
• Next it should be noted that vinegar eels are easy. Microworms and other nematodes often require you to add food about once a week. Then after two or three weeks they need to be started over. This can be time-consuming, especially if you have large cultures or a number of them. On the other hand, the vinegar eel culture only needs a bit of food added to it once a month and it will last for a minimum of three months, but often up to six.
• The next thing that should be noted is that vinegar eels are a lot easier for fry and fish to eat. The other nematodes drown and they live on the surface of sour paste. The microworm is called the sour paste nematode. However, when added to the water they slowly sink to the bottom. They can then crawl into the substrate or sand if they are not eaten by snails or bottom feeders. Finally, they can die and add waste to your water quality. On the other hand, vinegar eels swim. They stick at the top of the surface and stay there. This makes it easier for them to be eaten by the fry and can even be seen by larger fish who might miss the sinking microworms.
• The vinegar eels can live for days in the water. In fact, they may be able to live for weeks, but it's hard to know because the fish will grab them up. Because they can live in the water and they aren't going to die before the fish eat them, they also won't add waste to your water.

These benefits make them more appealing to many than the microworms, banana worms, or Walter's worms. These easy to keep cultures can be set up, set aside, and brought out when you need them. A starter culture of the vinegar nematode is inexpensive, and if you start a regular new culture you will be able to keep them forever.

Discus Fish Care Essentials

With regards to discus fish care, it can be a really complex job to ensure that your fish are pleased with their environment, making sure they have every thing they require, discus aren't usually suggested for newbie aquarists but in the event you want to give it a go, then you will find some essential elements which you need to think about with regards to discus fish care, and probably the most essential element for ensuring the well being of your discus fish is the water.

Discus fish are from the Amazon River and so they're used to warmer and much more acidic waters. The perfect temperature for the water in a discus tank is about 26-31 C for grownup fish and for child discus and baby discus, the perfect temperature is at 31 C. it's essential for your water to become soft and acidic having a pH lever of in between 5.5 and 6.5, this really is a perfect pH degree for wild discus to keep them happy.

Numerous aquarists believe the water inside a discus tank needs to be replaced frequently (this will be the exact same with any fish tank) but in the event you have a nicely planted tank that consists of sufficient filtration, lights and bottom dwelling fish to clear up the mess that discus deposit following consuming food, then this will make the tank a great deal cleaner and also the keep the water clearer for extended periods. With regards to the vegetation along with other fish which you consider to keep together with your discus fish, you need to select fish and vegetation to compliment the discus to ensure that they're in a position to thrive.

With regards to captive discus which have already been bred, then it's feasible for them to adapt to tougher water which tends to make discus fish care that bit simpler. Captive discus can survive in water having a pH stability of as much as 6.8 (this isn't appropriate if you're trying to breed discus, nevertheless, soft and acidic water is greatest for breeding) once the pH stability is reduced then it safeguards the discus from harmful toxins which permits the discus to reside in conditions which are nearly the exactly the same as where they had came from.

It's essential to be aware that a pH degree which drops below 5 can inhibit the development of helpful bacteria which may exist within the filter. So with regards to discus care you need to keep in mind that the temperature and also the pH stability of the water is extremely essential any drop in the pH can trigger the discus to get sick and may even cause them to die, that is why that it isn't appropriate for inexperienced fish keepers to try to breed discus fish, nevertheless all of us should learn exactly how, if you're truly thinking about keeping your personal discus aquarium, make sure to study up on all the info that's around for you on discus care.

Maintaining Cichlid's Water

If you're still a beginner in the hobby of raising and keeping cichlids, the seemingly complicated specifications of water chemistry may have you worried. However, believe it or not, obtaining and maintaining the correct water chemistry for your cichlid fish may be less complicated than you think. There are three important properties that need to be measured and adjusted in order to give your cichlids the most ideal water chemistry possible. Those three are pH, GH, and KH.

pH 

Having the correct pH balance in your cichlid's water is probably the most important part of good water chemistry. Your water's pH balance describes whether it is more acidic, more alkaline, or just plain neutral. If your water tests for a pH balance of seven, this means it is perfectly neutral - an ideal balance for most fish. Any number greater than seven means it has an alkaline balance, and any number less than seven means it is acidic.

Even the slightest changes in the pH balance of your water can upset your delicate cichlids so try to keep a stable level. If you need to make adjustments, be sure that you don't raise or lower the level by more than a third of a point per day. Keep in mind that each number on the pH scale signifies a difference of ten times more or less acidity or alkalinity than the numbers adjacent to it. A reading of six - just one point less than a neutral seven - means your water is ten times more acidic.

General Hardness (GH) 

The hardness of your water is measured by the amount of calcium and magnesium it contains. Many African cichlids are happiest in an aquarium with a GH level that hovers somewhere between 160 and 320 parts per million. Because calcium and magnesium do not keep for very long in water, your aquarium's GH level will steadily drop if not manually adjusted. There are various scales used to measure water hardness so make sure to determine which of them your testing kit is using before judging the results.

Carbonate Hardness (KH) 

The carbonate hardness level of your water describes the level of carbonates and bicarbonates it contains. It measures your water's ability to keep a stable pH level, which, as we know, is crucial to the survival of your cichlids. With a sufficiently high KH level, your water will maintain its pH balance even through various changes. The right amount of carbonates and bicarbonates acts like a vacuum cleaner, absorbing any harmful additives before they affect the acidity of your precious water. A good KH range is usually somewhere between 180 to 240 parts per million.

Testing 

It's important to test your aquarium's water for these three properties to ensure that your fish are as healthy as they can be. Having the correct levels in all three of these categories will contribute to happier, prettier cichlids that will live longer, more natural lives.

One of the most accurate water testing kits is the API liquid test kit, which comes with a number of different tests for various minerals. As a rule, liquid drop test kits are generally of better quality than the cheaper but less accurate test strips.

How to Adjust and Maintain pH and KH 

Because cichlids are so vulnerable to even the slightest changes in their water chemistry, if you need to adjust any of these levels, it's important to do so slowly. Adding one teaspoon of baking soda for every five gallons of water in your tank can help to slowly begin raising its pH and KH balance if needed, but make sure that you add it slowly(too fast can harm the fish). This should be dissolved ahead of time in a glass of aquarium water.

Each time you do a water change, you will need to add 1 teaspoon of baking soda for every 5 gallons that you take out. For example, if you take out 30 gallons of water, you will need to put 6 teaspoons of baking soda in. This should also be dissolved before adding it to the aquarium.

Lowering your pH balance is much trickier as you first need to obliterate the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water, after which you can then lower the pH. Driftwood and sodium biphosphate both contain acids that will get the job done nicely, but be sure to keep a close eye on your water. After you are finished the process, restore your water's KH balance with crushed coral, limestone, or oyster shell.

Arowana Care: Different Shades of Gold

One of the favorite fishes of hobbyists is the golden arowana fish, since not only does it intensify its association with power and wealth due to its distinct coloration, they also tend to come in different variants, and enthusiasts had even put them into a scale. One of the levels of grading golden arowanas is the Red Tail Golden (RTG) arowanas. This variant is known to have a distinct coppery development of scale coloration. However, the second and third rows of the scales give off a slightly purplish sheen. The fins are also coppery red, almost brown-red, while the row of scales directly near them ranges from dark grey to black.

Another level, and the one that holds the most prestige, is the Full Scale Gold (FSG) arowana fish. Based on its name, it is obvious that this variety boasts an almost solid pattern of gold scales. Indeed, it does, with scales which may or may not give off a purplish sheen. It is also known for a sharp black line around its eyes. Unlike the RTG arowanas, FSG arowanas have yellow-brown to solid gold pectoral and ventral fins. These features are also the ones being sought first when buying a golden arowana.

An enthusiast with an eye for an arowana fish might notice the difference, but a beginner couldn't tell an FSG from a High Back RTG. If the FSG is known for its black eye line, the High Back RTG has a blue-green or brown-red eye line; varying hues might be easily mistakened as black. Also, two-thirds down the pectoral and ventral fins, the supposedly yellow-brown or golden coloration turns coppery, sometimes dark red. Other varieties which are out in the market are relatively new, like the Malaysian gold and Australian gold, all of which are not yet known to many hobbyists.

A fully-grown adult arowana fish has a formidable countenance often cloaked in bright colors, but it does not mean it began like that as well. In fact, regardless of the variety and color, anl arowana starts off as fragile, vulnerable silver fry. In fact, they are so helpless that for the first five to six weeks, they have with them an egg sac, which provides them with food and nutrition. Their minute form also exposes them to danger, and that is why the young arowanas can be usually found in groups of ten. When they are old enough to lose their sacs, which is when the territoriality and aggressiveness kicks in while they look for themselves bugs and small aquatic animals to feed upon.

If anarowana fish is well taken care of, add to that well-kept tank conditions, it grows very rapidly, hence its reputation as being a gigantic fish. In fact, it is very noticeable that it grows and does not seem to stop. After about a year, many arowana owners see their pets reaching sizes of almost one foot! Indeed, this adaptation is really important as in their natural habitats, predators are usually of the lengths between two to three meters; something evolution shaped to make the arowana survive. Indeed, if one keeps on taking good care of the arowana, it will continue growing, given that there is enough room, food, and patience.

The arowana fish exhibits slight sexual dimorphism, as it is seen that males have bigger and deeper mouths. In mating, the two fishes will swim in pair and find a spot to make a nest, usually from mud. Once the female lays the eggs, the male inseminates them and eventually puts them in his mouth to incubate them; something unique for the arowanas.

Arowana Care: Arowanas Can Be With the Others!

The arowana fish is a formidable hunter in its natural habitats. Putting it in a tank with other fishes had proven to be a tricky endeavour; arowanas are meat eaters and highly territorial. However, knowing how the arowana behaves in the wild, one might be equipped with the knowledge on how to keep arowanas in harmony with other fishes. One thing to consider, as what had already been said, is its territoriality. 

An arowana does not want any other arowana in sight, for they will most likely compete and fight with each other -- something a fish keeper does not want to happen. However, it was shown that in groups in at least four or five fishes, the aggressive behavior are subdued.

Another thing with the arowana fish is that they it loves meat; they are carnivores. Driven by its natural instinct, therefore, one already knows that it is most likely to devour smaller and more vulnerable fishes in the tank. Knowing that, one must, as much as possible, keep the arowana away from smaller fishes. This does not mean, however, that the arowana is meant to live alone. One thing we can use to the tank's advantage is that the arowana is a surface feeder; it spends most of its time in the surface.

Given specifications about different varieties and species of domestic fishes, one is ought to find middle and bottom dwellers to go with an arowana. For instance, fishes like the blue ram, dwarf cory, or snow tetra will not only bring color to a tank, but also prove to be good companions since they are middle dwellers. In addition, bottom feeders like the janitor fish is also a good companion not only to the arowana fish, but also to the fish keeper as well; it helps with the maintenance.

Who thought that a big strange fish will attract thousands of admirers and hobbyists? Just look at the arowana fish and one will know why. It resembles the crust dragon, which is a symbol of power and good fortune. People associated this with the art of feng shui and how could one harness its luck attracting energy. This is why in Hong Kong; the belief is strong that any kind or variety of the arowana brings in luck and good energy in a household. That is why the trade for the arowanas is booming.

Most arowanas from the Asian stock have bright flaming colors which are even more identifiable with the crust dragon. This is why people are going crazy over this arowana fish, but consequently, they are having smaller and smaller populations. In fact, the Asian varieties are now being micro chipped to easily track them for the best ones can cost up to $6,000! 

Definitely the price tells much of this fish, as it requires specialized care; they are not the typical pet fishes. They are known to be great hunters of the Amazon, and a responsible pet owner is ought not to drastically change that environment in the arowana's tank. Few may the numbers be of the Asian stock, but newer stocks like the South American (closer to the arapaima) and Australian (usually rusty gold) are being bred now; all just as beautiful but not really endangered.

Many people want the arowana fish for its believed auspicious powers, or just because of its sheer beauty. This also leads many breeders to produce inferior and substandard varieties, all being led by desires for profits and capital. Sad this truth may be, this compels an aspiring hobbyist to be careful with choosing the arowana to buy.

Arowana Food Part 2

Arowana Food: Fish

There's a whole lot of fish available in the market for use as Arowana food. Actually, as long as the fish is not toxic or venomous and as long as it is smaller than the Arowana you will be feeding it to, then it is okay for your pet to eat it. However, there are still dangers that come along with supplying fish into your Arowana's diet. These, and other facts about fish as Arowana food, will be discussed in this article.

As mentioned above, plenty of fish could be fed to Arowanas. The most usual of which are small chidlid, baby catfish, baby koi, meadow fish and feeder goldfish. However, as was also previously stated, there are risks in using fish in your Arowana's regimen. Because they are waterborne, chances of infection are bigger. Also, a number of these said fish are high on cholesterol which causes the drop eye condition in Arowanas. Dietary deficit is also a usual result of using goldfish as Arowana food because of some of its enzymes. Therefore, goldfish is not really a good choice of sustenance for Arowanas.

However, if you still plan on including live fish in your Arowana's diet, then you must always remember to keep these fish away for a minimum of five days to ensure that they are safe to eat before you feed them to your Arowana. Also, so that your Arowana could receive more nutrition, then you can first feed these feeder fish right before you give them to your Arowana. This method can also be done when you're trying to pass medicine on to your pet fish.

In conclusion, it is okay use live fish as Arowana food as long as one keeps in mind the dangers that come along with it. Remember to quarantine them before use and avoid using feeder goldfish. Lastly, keep varying what you feed your Arowana so that it will stay healthy at all times.

Arowana Food: Live Prawns

Among the many available Arowana food, the one which will be discussed in this article is live prawns, or in simpler terms, shrimp. Like the various other types of food that Arowanas can eat, there are also advantages and disadvantages when feeding shrimp to your Arowana. Here, you will find out exactly what these are.

One of the advantages is the fact that, like any other crustacean, shrimps are a very good source of nourishment. However, there are also disadvantages to using shrimp as Arowana food, just like the other living creatures that an Arowana eats. So just as you would do to other live food, detaining the shrimps for at least five days before feeding them to your Arowana is important to ensure that they are clean and disease free. Another drawback in using live prawn is that when they are left in your aquarium, your Arowana would tend to persistently hunt for them downwards, one cause of the drop eye problem in Arowanas.

Lastly, do not feed these crustaceans to an Arowana that is when it is still in its earliest stage of development. This is because the carcasses of the prawns are very hard for the baby Arowana's digestive system to break down, thus giving them stomach troubles. Nevertheless, shrimps are still abundant in vitamin A, the vitamin that heightens and improves the color of Arowanas, so it is still a good source of nutrition.

Now you know the advantages and disadvantages of using live prawns as Arowana food. If you're thinking twice about what to feed your pet Arowana, look back on this article and review what you've read. Shrimps are a good source of vitamin A, but using them all the time may cause the drop eye problem. So keep alternating between prawns and the other food available for Arowanas and you can be sure to be hassle free in growing your pet.

Arowana Food: The Basics

An Arowana must be fed a variety of Arowana food so that the probability rate of insufficiency in nutrition could be lowered. Also, an Arowana must never be overfed. Doing so causes an Arowana to lose its desire to eat, which in turn leads it to starve itself for a long interval. This is also one of the reasons for the dwindling of an Arowana's life expectancy as well as its capacity to breed.

The size of an Arowana must also be taken into consideration when one is trying to know how much to feed it. Arowana food must be given three times a day if the Arowana is at a length under 6 inches. Conversely, an Arowana that measures between 6 and 14 inches must have two meals within 24 hours. Finally, if the Arowana has reached its peak size of more than 14 inches, then it must be fed only once every day.

In its natural habitat, an Arowana's diet includes bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish. When in captivity, however, owners may opt to train their Arowana to accept artificial feeds. Still, to ensure that an Arowana remains healthy when you make it your pet, the above mentioned should stay as a staple in its regimen.

There's added nutrition in organic food, but there are also dangers that come along in choosing to feed the latter to your Arowana. Maladies can enter your aquarium through the things you put inside it, so to avoid the latter from happening, detain live food for a couple of days before letting your Arowana to eat it.

These are just the basic things you need to know when it comes to Arowana food. To ensure you have a complete understanding of what to feed your pet Arowana, read further on the different types of bugs, worms, crustaceans, small amphibians and fish that can nourish it.

Arowana Food

Arowana Food: Crickets

There are many types of food you can feed your Arowana. From insects to amphibians, from worms to different sea creatures, and even artificial feeds, there's a whole lot of food available for this type of fish. In this article, however, you will find everything you need to know about one type of bug that Arowanas like to eat. In this article, crickets as Arowana food will be the main topic of discussion.

A spectrum of nutrients is provided to an Arowana when a cricket is fed to it. Illnesses and disorders are also rare occurrences when feeding an Arowana this type of food. However, one must remember to take off the tough shell protecting the cricket when feeding it to an Arowana when it is still in its infantile stage so that stomach problems may be circumvented. 

Making sure that the cricket is farm bred is also important due to the fact that a wild cricket may have been already sprayed with insecticide, thus making it quite dangerous for the health of your Arowana. The measure of the cricket should also be suitable to the size of the Arowana it will be fed to. As Arowana food, freezing a cricket may also be done to promote an untroubled meal.

Additionally, making a cricket consume vegetables with vitamin A, such as carrots and squash, could also be done before the bug is given to the Arowana so that there could be a transmission of sustenance. Arowanas benefit from vitamin A in such a way that its color receives a boost, especially in cases of red Arowanas.

In conclusion, there are many benefits to using a cricket as Arowana food. However, one must always keep in mind that in feeding an Arowana, variety is always needed so that alimentary deficit may be prevented.

Arowana Food: Cockroaches

Another Arowana food that could be easily found everywhere is cockroaches. This insect has the same value as crickets when it comes to feeding your pet Arowana. However, one should always keep in mind the dangers of letting an Arowana eat a dead cockroach. A reason behind this is the fact that it is unsanitary. Also, it may have died due to pesticide, thus making it unhealthy for your pet to eat. Therefore, always choose farm bred cockroaches if you're going to feed them to your Arowana.

As previously stated, cockroaches are just like crickets when it comes to feeding your pet Arowana. This type of Arowana food has the same nutritional value as crickets do and just like the latter, cockroaches could also be given nutritional supplements containing vitamin A so that when it is their turn to be eaten by the Arowana, the sustenance is passed on. It is good to feed the cockroaches with squash, carrots and other vegetables containing vitamin A before they are fed to the Arowana because the said vitamin causes an Arowana's color to improve. 

On another note, just like crickets, the size of the cockroaches you feed your Arowana should also be proportional to the length of your Arowana. Lastly, because they are just the same as crickets, you could also freeze them before letting your Arowana eat them, and it is also advisable to quarantine them for a couple of days before feeding them to your Arowana to ensure that they are free of any ailments.

So if you plan on using cockroaches as your Arowana food of choice, keep in mind the information found on this article and you'll surely be trouble free in the health department of your pet Arowana. However, you should also always remember that diversity should always be present in your Arowana's diet to keep it healthy at all times. Hang on to these reminders and your Arowana will surely live a long life.

New World Cichlids

New World Cichlids can be found in the continents of North America, South America, and Central America. These fish make wonderful pets due to their unique colors, their interesting personalities, and the ease with which they may be maintained.

The angel fish is one of the most common New World cichlids. A South American cichlid, the angel fish is beautiful and queenly but needs very specific water conditions. Angel fish are generally triangular-shaped with long, string-like fins trailing behind them and sometimes a stripe or two across their backs.

Another common New World cichlid is the convict, so named because of its feisty temperament. Convict cichlids may be bullies but they can live in a wide variety of aquarium conditions and are easy to keep and breed. Convicts can be identified by their light blue bodies and the dark black, zebra stripes across their backs.

The Jack Dempsey is also a favorite among cichlid lovers. Like the convict, the Jack Dempsey can be moody, and as an adult he can grow up to nearly a foot in length. Jack Dempseys are dark brown but males usually have splashes or dots of bright blue or green on their sides and humps on their foreheads. Jack Dempseys are easy to keep and need large open spaces as well as caves to hide in.

In the wild, North and Central American cichlids are found in rivers and lakes. Some lay their eggs in the sand of the river bottoms while others lay them simply on top of rocks at the bottom of the lake in which they reside. Some even make their homes in tiny underwater caves and tunnels. South American cichlids are usually found in water conditions that are more acidic such as black water regions in the Amazonian basin.

The aquarium requirements for these types of fish vary according to their natural habit. North and Central American cichlids are more adept at adapting to vary aquarium conditions but need good hiding places or caves in their aquarium for refuge. These should not be kept in any tank with a length of less than 48 inches.

The South American cichlid usually needs much more specific water conditions in the aquarium in which it is kept. The pH balance of the water needs to be quite low - sometimes as low as six - and the water itself needs to be very soft. Plants are popular with the South American cichlid, although certain species may cause havoc to underwater plants.

One of the best things about New World cichlids is that there are so many from which to choose. The variety available among these species of fish is simply astounding and there is always something new to discover. New World cichlid fish can be a joy to take care of and a delight to own.

Choosing African Cichlids

African Cichlids are among the most popular fresh water aquarium exotics. They fill fresh water aquariums with the diversity of colors and patterns often associated with salt water aquariums.

Cichlids can range in size from four to nine inches. Breeds can be very different ranging from zebra stripes to giraffe spots to bright colors. Often the males are vividly beautiful and the females mutely colored. Some are even dichromatic with the males and females looking like completely different species.

Easy Care Breeds

Many cichlids are considered easy to care for. Among these are the 'sunshine peacock' cichlid and the colorful 'Eureka Red Peacock'. Each grow to an average of 5.9 inches(depending on tank conditions). The males are known for their beautiful coloration, just like the bird of the same name. Another easy breed is the blue dolphin cichlid, which can grow to be 10 inches, and the 'Afra' or 'dogtooth' cichlids which grow to only 3.9 inches. The 'Venustus' cichlid is another easy care breed and has giraffe spots while in its juvenile state.

Rock Caves Needed For Some Breeds

One entertaining, easy care breed is the gorgeous 'electric yellow' Malawi cichlid. This is a very popular breed among the Malawi Cichlids. To create the best living conditions, the aquarium should include rock caves where males are able to establish territories. Other rock cave dwellers include the 'red zebra', the 'cobalt blue', and the 'johanni blue'. These fish are entertaining and social creatures.

Snail Shell Dwellers

Several breeds of cichlids, such as the striped 'neolamprologus similis' and the neolamprologus multifasciatus', are actually shell dwellers. They prefer to make their homes in an empty snail shell. To make them feel at home, the tank should have many shells and a sandy bottom. Plants should be well anchored because these cichlids like to bury the shells in the sand.

Dwarf Cichlids

Dwarf cichlids come in a variety of colors and patterns, just like their slightly bigger cousins. One of the most common is the 'blue ram' which is considered easy to care for. Other dwarfs need a higher level of expert care. These include the 'checkerboard', 'two-stripe', 'three-stripe', 'panda', 'cockatoo' and 'zebra' dwarf cichlids.

Aggression

When choosing among cichlids, it is best to find out how aggressive the males of any breed will be. The 'electric yellow' Malawi Cichlids are known to be a pretty calm fish. However, mixing the wrong species together can cause severe aggression, so be careful when choosing your tank mates!

By following simple guidelines, you will be able to fill your aquarium with these exciting species and know that they will bring years of joy and entertainment.